The Richmond Range was absolutely lovely, although some of the most difficult trail I've walked before. The route follows river bottoms for a day or two and then jumps high into the alpine and follows ridges between peaks. Unlike in the states, the trail isn't cut out for the most part and is only a previously trod path over loose rock and a tangle of roots. There are blazes on the trees and poles once you get above treeline.
I had company almost every night in the huts and leap frogged with various small groups during the day. The first three days I kept up with an Alaskan fellow, Patrick, who has done the entire Te Araroa route so far, including all the road walking. He gave me the confidence to try for the alpine section and set a great pace to aim for. However, the second day on the ridges, a thick fog set in and made all the rocks slick as snot. While standing on a small ledge, my legs flew out from under me and I landed hard on one of my hands. With a sprained wrist, I limped along to the next hut and took a half day to prepare to summit the high point the next day. Patrick and I had lunch at the hut and he pushed on but said to expect a pair from Vancouver to show up that night. Sure enough, they came in a few hours before dark. Tucker and Lasma were a blast! Coworkers from a tech company in Vancouver, they tease each other like siblings and we spent the next 3 days together.
I was really glad they were behind me when going up Rintoul. You summit Little Rintoul, drop down a sketchy scree slope and cross a sketchier saddle, and climb straight back up to the high point. The rock was awful; you couldn't get any solid foothold and caused lots of rock fall on the "trail" below. And just to keep you on your toes, there was often a several hundred foot drop-off below you. After the summit, you follow a gentle ridge down for a ways, and then there is another STEEP scree slope to slide down another thousand feet or so. The first part of the slope is awesome! Fine rock that you can practically ski down. And then you hit a section where the rock thins out and gets just big enough so your feet slip everywhere. With only a walking stick, I ended up on my ass many times. I won't be winning any speed or grace awards for my mountaineering skills anytime soon. My weight landed on my hand a time or two which knocked the breath out of me, but made it to the next hut to wait for Lasma and Tucker to finish their crossing.
After a quick nap and lunch, went another few hours to the next hut. I should mention that my food supplies were pretty limited at this point. Stupidly, I had over compensated for my excess of food on the Queen Charlotte and hadn't brought as much food as I wanted for this section. Although I had enough to get me through, I was definitely in a rationing state of mind. This may help explain why I was overjoyed at finding an abandoned can of baked beans when entering the hut. I had been dreaming of beans on toast for the last 3 days! I probably annoyed Patrick with my enthusiasm. So I took the beans as a sign from a higher being, heated them up, and shared them on tortillas with Lasma and Tucker. I packed that empty can out with great happiness.
After a steep down section the next day, I reached a point where the trail continued on another 30 to 40 km to go over another peak and has some big boulder scrambling OR follows a river out for another 10 km to a logging road. Tired, sore, and with darkening skies, I didn't want to chance further injury if the rocks turned slick again. I decided to overnight and take the bail out. Tucker and Lasma pushed on and I spent a cozy night alone with a warm fireplace and listening to a gentle rain fall. My decision was for the best; somehow the remaining gas for my stove leaked out during the night and I lost my ability to cook the food I had left. I spent 4 hours following the river path the next morning and cursing slick rocks, roots, and stream crossings. The sun came out shortly before I hit the road and lightened the mood for the walk to town. A few hours later, a car finally came by and offered me a ride the rest of the way. The rest of the afternoon passed with a small resupply near Nelson, another long hitchhike, and walk into St Arnaud; I definitely enjoyed a hot shower and putting my feet up. After buying another can of baked beans, of course.
Looking at going into Nelson Lakes National Park in a day or two when the weather gets better. Supposed to be much easier hiking and absolutely gorgeous. After a night with an ice pack and some pain pills, the wrist is bruised but feeling way better and the swelling is reduced. Should be good as new in a week or two. The groups from the trail should all be in town tonight and we've planned on meeting up for BBQ and a beer. For right now, enjoying a comfy window seat and watching the light rain with a cup of tea.
Good things seem to be happening at home too! My folks and I have been trading emails while they have continued my hunt for a camper and vehicle that can tow it. They found a match this last week and have lifted a huge weight from my mind. Will need to sell my truck when I return to go towards the new car and transfer money for the camper, but so nice to know that the hard part is done. Owe them so much for everything.
My trip has reached its halfway point, which is difficult to believe. Looking forward to getting stronger and spending time with new friends... Cheers!
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