Hour 5 of the sandfly invasion. They've surrounded the campground and those of us sad souls who call this earth home for the night are bunkering down. Maybe for the long haul. We've taken injuries, but we'll know better in the morning how hard we've been hit. Even the long underwear armor can't protect all of you. Lost blood and dignity litters this valley. Save yourself. Take no prisoners.
Oh, and Aspiring National Park is awful pretty.
I have to admit that I may have had my best Valentines weekend ever, although I was without my Valentine. Downhill mountain biking with minimal crashes, cribbage games with maximum smack talk, beer, beach, and my first time paragliding (it turns out that picking up hitch hikers brings along great karma)! Details will follow, but just have to say it's been difficult to stop smiling today. Finally ran into some friends from home and spent time with strangers who made me want to be a better person.
Fingers crossed the good weather continues and I can get one more long backpacking trip in!
The past few days have felt really difficult for no good reason. I've seen more of this beautiful country, been in the company of three good hearted travel companions, and received lots of love from home. But an overwhelming need to return looms in my heart and I feel like time has flown by since January 1st. A sense of guilt sets in for not embracing the "be here now" mindset and living for the future.
Four trail walkers and I went to see the movie Wild this week. I bought the book almost two weeks ago in Christchurch, but hadn't started it out of stubbornness and the want to get through other brain candy. After the movie though, I've been completely absorbed in the book. I don't have a firm opinion yet, but I have 40 more pages until I'll have to process the book as a whole. It's funny to me that this book means more in my life right this second than the actual experiences I've lived this last week. This book has had me stealing off to my tiny orange tent for another chapter, sitting silently in the car without hearing the talk going on around me, and brought me to tears when sitting alone at a penguin viewing overlook. All I can say is that Wild has moved me in a way that I didn't expect.
Rather than giving into foul humors last night, I sat down and made a list of the things I've learned in the past 2 and a half months. They are as follows:
Trust in the kindness of strangers.
Starving is for supermodels and survival situations.
Don't let your mental blocks hold back your physical abilities.
You're allowed to have bad days.
Go with your gut and take advice lightly.
Compliments sound different when coming from other cultures.
Don't take more than you're comfortable carrying. Both literally and figuratively.
Give your mind a chance to rest the same as you would your body.
Speak honestly, though gently if you have ill to say.
Treasure the small comforts so the big discomforts don't seem so bad.
You don't need much, but have the right things. Don't sacrifice necessities.
I don't know what lies ahead the next ten days, but mountain biking and a few days back in Wanaka are guaranteed. Looking into solo hiking an alpine route between Wanaka and Queenstown, which should take up most of the time before my return home.
It's a little early for the 14th, but sending lots of love across the Pacific.
Just feeling very thankful today for the opportunity to be here and to have met some wonderful people. From kava ceremonies in Richmond huts with Lasma and Tucker to cribbage games over tea with Paul and Patrick to long conversations about NZ conservation with Malcolm, it's been great. Even with being surrounded by people all the time, there's plenty of room to breathe and grow here.
After Hanmer Springs, I was able to crash at a complete stranger's house on the outskirts of Christchurch. Patrick had met a fellow Alaskan randomly one day on the trail, and the guy offered him a place to crash if he came to the city. The fellow is named Paul and grew up in Seward but fell in love with and married a Kiwi girl back when he was in his traveling days. The two of them and their 3 kids moved over about a year ago and now have an amazing place out in the country.
Paul's wife and kids were visiting family down south last week, so he was happy to take in two strays and we traded accommodation for some chores done around the house. He made homemade pizza from scratch both nights with a huge, fresh salad from the garden. We got in a few games of cribbage after dinner last night. It is so refreshing to not have to share space with tons of other people like in the huts or at hostels. Nice to clean an area and know it will be clean when you come back to it. Paul's kindness is and was above and beyond.
Went into the city one of the days to meet Michaela (whom I spent time with in Auckland) for coffee before her flight home and pick up a rental car. Patrick and I are taking 2 weeks to drive down to Queenstown and hopefully get some good day hikes in around Fjordland. Since he's been hiking since October, the thought of driving long distances and having a place to store your stuff during the day is blowing his mind. Just being able to carry fresh food is a fun change! I'm glad to have someone around for a bit who is mellow and down to explore.
From Christchurch, we drove west and stayed two nights around Arthurs Pass. First night was under a bridge below Cave Stream and the second was spent in a mouse infested hut on the short Bealy Spur Track. Traded sand flies for mice in our food. The area was incredible, but didn't sleep well either night. Hiked up to Castle Hill, did some amateur spelunking in Cave Stream, checked out Devils something or other Falls... Basically, squeezed in a lot of the short, easy hikes. Fun to play tourist and drink Chai in a cafe some mornings!
Once again, Patrick is the social butterfly and the first two hitchhikers we picked up turned out to be 2 paragliders that he camped with in Nelson Lakes. The weather had turned and they were buying time in towns before setting off for their next jump spot. Gill and Mags; charming couple and really fun! We gave them a ride one day to the town of Arthurs Pass and after bumping into them again the next day, a ride to Greymouth on the coast. Shared a beer and lunch at the brewery and then split ways; they headed back and we went north towards Westport to find some beach camping. Possibly my favorite spot so far... There was a break in the overcast clouds just in time for sunset and you could glimpse the waxing moon.
Woke up to light rain and threw everything in the car. Looped around thru the country back to Greymouth and went on a short hike in an old mining area. Found the track half on accident. We were looking for a break spot to get out and stretch our legs and I followed a random sign for a lookout. The lookout road was closed, but I decided to just drive up an old logging (er, mining) road and see what we could find. Turned out to be a really cool detour with about an hour of rain-free outdoor time!
Continued to Hokitika in time for lunch. Walked around town and checked out the Driftwood and Sand Art Festival on the beach. Clear skies and perfect temps made for a good afternoon of lying in the grass and walking along the surf. I also received some great news: I was accepted to Oregon State's forestry graduate program. Starts up next fall and don't know any details yet, but exciting news!
Spent the evening up near Hotitika Gorge and hid in the car for 2 hours after setting up camp to escape the sand flies. My feet are covered in bites despite wearing long underwear almost 24/7 and socks under my flip flops. The epitome of high fashion in summer! Killer combo when combined with unwashed hair.
Drove all day yesterday in POURING rain to try and see the coastal glaciers. Ran out to Franz Josef, but we hit a lightning cell at Fox and couldn't see a thing. Figured we were wet enough after an hour or so in the downpour and didn't feel like camping in soaked tents and soggy sleeping bags for the 5th night in a row, so rode on til Wanaka. The roads were starting to flood and the rain came down so hard sometimes that you couldn't see the lines on the road. Saw one car in the ditch, so I'm happy that we made it safely.
Got a sweet room at the local holiday park last night and managed to have enough space to spread out all our damp gear and sort our trash out. Wonderful, unlimited time in HOT showers and a mini fridge to keep our beer in. Luxury.
Loving the weather today and have been taking care of business back home in the sunshine! Feels good to be in Wanaka. My favorite memories from my last NZ trip were from here! Could definitely see myself living in this area. Tomorrow, heading south again and hopefully towards more backpacking and hut hopping.
Cheers!
Somehow the time slips away too quickly when I'm in town, so this will be brief. I finished my third section two days ago going through Nelson Lakes National Park. 113 km in 6 days. Was my favorite part of New Zealand so far with amazing scenery and a fun, social hiking group. Took my time with the area due to nervousness about the big pass, but it was easy after Richmond. One steep climb up a tall scree slope and then side hill and down climbing on solid rock. Waaay better than trying to surf scree down.
The weather was pretty much perfect. Brought more food and could actually afford to make double dinners some nights! Extra servings of instant mashed potatoes and dehydrated peas do a lot for morale, it turns out...
Too many things to mention. Clumsy creek crossings, the clearest lake in the world, snuggling into huts in stormy weather, perfect bluebird day over the pass, miles and miles of river valley hiking, all the bloody Germans, hiking friends I won't forget anytime soon. Oh, and Afghans. The best chocolate cookie I've ever come across...
Four of us popped out of the woods and came up to Hanmer Springs for a rest day. Hot springs, comfy backpacker accommodation, beer, greasy food, the works. Two of the guys are hitting trail again today, but Patrick from Alaska and I are going to hitch to Arthurs Pass. I told him about Cave Stream that I hiked last time I was in country, and we're going to try and hit it up before some wet weather moves in. Abandoning the Te Araroa for now, but wanting to make it south with plenty of time to hike down there. Should have time to come back up and do the next TA section before I fly home at the end of February.
One month left! Cheers y'all.
The Richmond Range was absolutely lovely, although some of the most difficult trail I've walked before. The route follows river bottoms for a day or two and then jumps high into the alpine and follows ridges between peaks. Unlike in the states, the trail isn't cut out for the most part and is only a previously trod path over loose rock and a tangle of roots. There are blazes on the trees and poles once you get above treeline.
I had company almost every night in the huts and leap frogged with various small groups during the day. The first three days I kept up with an Alaskan fellow, Patrick, who has done the entire Te Araroa route so far, including all the road walking. He gave me the confidence to try for the alpine section and set a great pace to aim for. However, the second day on the ridges, a thick fog set in and made all the rocks slick as snot. While standing on a small ledge, my legs flew out from under me and I landed hard on one of my hands. With a sprained wrist, I limped along to the next hut and took a half day to prepare to summit the high point the next day. Patrick and I had lunch at the hut and he pushed on but said to expect a pair from Vancouver to show up that night. Sure enough, they came in a few hours before dark. Tucker and Lasma were a blast! Coworkers from a tech company in Vancouver, they tease each other like siblings and we spent the next 3 days together.
I was really glad they were behind me when going up Rintoul. You summit Little Rintoul, drop down a sketchy scree slope and cross a sketchier saddle, and climb straight back up to the high point. The rock was awful; you couldn't get any solid foothold and caused lots of rock fall on the "trail" below. And just to keep you on your toes, there was often a several hundred foot drop-off below you. After the summit, you follow a gentle ridge down for a ways, and then there is another STEEP scree slope to slide down another thousand feet or so. The first part of the slope is awesome! Fine rock that you can practically ski down. And then you hit a section where the rock thins out and gets just big enough so your feet slip everywhere. With only a walking stick, I ended up on my ass many times. I won't be winning any speed or grace awards for my mountaineering skills anytime soon. My weight landed on my hand a time or two which knocked the breath out of me, but made it to the next hut to wait for Lasma and Tucker to finish their crossing.
After a quick nap and lunch, went another few hours to the next hut. I should mention that my food supplies were pretty limited at this point. Stupidly, I had over compensated for my excess of food on the Queen Charlotte and hadn't brought as much food as I wanted for this section. Although I had enough to get me through, I was definitely in a rationing state of mind. This may help explain why I was overjoyed at finding an abandoned can of baked beans when entering the hut. I had been dreaming of beans on toast for the last 3 days! I probably annoyed Patrick with my enthusiasm. So I took the beans as a sign from a higher being, heated them up, and shared them on tortillas with Lasma and Tucker. I packed that empty can out with great happiness.
After a steep down section the next day, I reached a point where the trail continued on another 30 to 40 km to go over another peak and has some big boulder scrambling OR follows a river out for another 10 km to a logging road. Tired, sore, and with darkening skies, I didn't want to chance further injury if the rocks turned slick again. I decided to overnight and take the bail out. Tucker and Lasma pushed on and I spent a cozy night alone with a warm fireplace and listening to a gentle rain fall. My decision was for the best; somehow the remaining gas for my stove leaked out during the night and I lost my ability to cook the food I had left. I spent 4 hours following the river path the next morning and cursing slick rocks, roots, and stream crossings. The sun came out shortly before I hit the road and lightened the mood for the walk to town. A few hours later, a car finally came by and offered me a ride the rest of the way. The rest of the afternoon passed with a small resupply near Nelson, another long hitchhike, and walk into St Arnaud; I definitely enjoyed a hot shower and putting my feet up. After buying another can of baked beans, of course.
Looking at going into Nelson Lakes National Park in a day or two when the weather gets better. Supposed to be much easier hiking and absolutely gorgeous. After a night with an ice pack and some pain pills, the wrist is bruised but feeling way better and the swelling is reduced. Should be good as new in a week or two. The groups from the trail should all be in town tonight and we've planned on meeting up for BBQ and a beer. For right now, enjoying a comfy window seat and watching the light rain with a cup of tea.
Good things seem to be happening at home too! My folks and I have been trading emails while they have continued my hunt for a camper and vehicle that can tow it. They found a match this last week and have lifted a huge weight from my mind. Will need to sell my truck when I return to go towards the new car and transfer money for the camper, but so nice to know that the hard part is done. Owe them so much for everything.
My trip has reached its halfway point, which is difficult to believe. Looking forward to getting stronger and spending time with new friends... Cheers!
Going radio silent for hopefully about 9 days. Currently in Nelson but hitching back up to Pelorus Bridge tomorrow morning and starting my attempt at the Richmond Range. Due to scary camp fire stories and lots of warning from locals, I'm not taking this section lightly and rented an emergency beacon. Too many tales of cliffing out and getting lost in low hanging cloud. I have a window for weather it looks like, so will try to get through the peaks before anything big can come in.
Body is looking much better after 3 days of meds. If things start to deteriorate again, not taking any chances and hiking out. Gotta respect the money maker; these feet don't work fo free.
Lots of nerves and excitement and trying not to do anything stupid. Don't ford rivers at high flow, check. Wait out storms in huts, CHECK. The pack will get lighter as you go, copy. On the steep sections, channel Kelli Roemer: Grind. It. Out.
Note: Nelson is apparently the place to talk forestry. Rode next to a timber faller on the way here and chatted today with a Canadian who owns a small timber track outside of town. Nice to relax and talk about something aside from the normal backpackers conversation. The faller even showed me some sweet pictures of his work site out on the Marlborough Sound.
After reading the newspaper today, I hope everyone is taking stock of how lucky most of us are. There are some cruel people in this world, and we can't be afraid to face them even if we fear their actions. While there are "safer" places, we can't be afraid to expose ourselves to the world because of a fear of random acts of violence. We stand a better chance of being injured any time we get in a car or eat an unhealthy meal. I thought a lot about my friends and loved ones today, and I know that we all suffer from and find joy in the art of living. I hope that everyone found a bit of joy today, even if only briefly.
Thinking of home.
Well, I powered through the 70 km of the Queen Charlotte Track on the tip of the southern island, but it was not without sacrifice. My feet are done. DONE. The pesky infected mosquito bites have only gotten worse and this morning, they took hold of my left ankle. Any time I've been cut or scratched in the last week, it's been infected in less than a day. To the doctor for me! Because at this point I have no other choice. I can barely walk without limping and starting another section of trail is unwise at this point. But dude. Finished the trail in 2 and a half days; pretty excited about that feat.
To be on a sunnier subject, I must say the trail is amazing. It doubles as a mountain bike course, but they close certain sections during their summer to allow only hikers & runners. Most of the bays offer accommodation and/or camping, and there are boats that move your bags from point to point if you wish. I would say the majority of people I saw took this option. Every day started with a hill for me, but well worth it for the views on top. The second day had some overcast which was the perfect weather to tramp in. There were lots of people on the trail and I found myself playing leap frog with a German couple, Arnie and Nina. They are doing the full Te Araroa and were just starting the South Island. The fitness of all the thru-hikers is astounding. I'm tempted to ask if I can feel how heavy their packs are...
Mine is god awful heavy. Tomorrow will be a day for the doctor, laundry, and trimming the fat from my pack. There is no way I'll be able to climb mountains without killing myself at its current weight. Everything hurts right now, so I figure now is when I'll be most ruthless.
My gear works well though. I found that my tent tends to get really hot and water accumulates heavily from my breath, but it's comfortable. My feet will be happy to stick out from under the sheets tonight.
The last three hours today were the hardest even though it may have been one of my favorite sections of trail. I felt weak, my feet had gone numb, and my shoulders protested from 3 days with the pack. I made it to Anakiwa and decided to hitch hike to the nearest town that I knew had a clinic, Havelock. I was immediately picked up in Anakiwa by an awesome hippie dude in the stereotypical van and he gave me a short ride to the gas station in Linkwater. After an hour of trying to catch a ride in front of the station, a friendly local finally picked me up and drove me the short distance to Havelock. Unfortunately, the clinic is closed Wednesdays, so I got a bed and a backpackers and will go in first thing in the morning.
In a few days when I'm feeling better, I'm sure I'll smile on the pain but for right now, I'm dreaming of antibiotics and sleep. Cheers!
I love this country. There's a connection to this place that feels like a mix of nostalgia and the new. The city of Auckland reminds me of Seattle, the weather makes me think of Humboldt (on its better days), but the people have a flair all their own.
It was another long day of travel to get here, and it was a long night of sitting in the Auckland airport on New Years while I waited for my hostel to open at 7 am. Everything went smoothly though and I grabbed an undisturbed nap once I had a bed to collapse into. After waking up, I walked down towards the ferry terminals to find some food as I had not had an actual meal that didn't consist of chocolate bars since Bangkok. I met one of my roommates when I returned to the hostel and we sipped beer (a German beer she recognized from home) and stayed up late chatting.
Yesterday, my roommate Michaela and I agreed to run some errands and then meet at noon to make our way to a beach. When I walked outside, I found some of my past coworkers hitch hiking in front of the building. I knew they were in town and had tried to get in touch the night before. Seems like they're heading south as well, so may bump into them later on!
Michaela and I had an awesome day of figuring out the public transit, laying on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and hiking the local volcano to watch the sunset. She's a hilarious German soon-to-be PE teacher who is on the same wavelength. We shared jokes, eye rolls, and laughs the whole afternoon and evening. She headed south this morning, but I have my fingers crossed that we bump into each other again! There's talk of trying out the mountain biking in Queenstown.
Today I'm on my own and walking around until 7 tonight when I take a night bus bound for Wellington. It's more chilly and overcast today, so looking into museums and coffee shops. I tried to find a post office to ship my pack from Thailand home, but everything is closed for the holiday/weekend until Monday. Guessing that Picton has post and will just ship it from there.
In other news, my pack is heavy. Much heavier than I wanted. It seems like everything is the normal amount I take for backcountry, but it feels twice the weight. I'm hoping that it's just my clothing layers that I normally will be wearing that are the difference, but man. I'm nervous about what it will feel like with ten days of food added in. I also have some infected bug bites that aren't healing and have been going back and forth in my head whether to see a doctor. The worst of them are on my feet and make it more than slightly uncomfortable to walk, but moving consistently helps. We'll see how they look tomorrow and make a judgement call. 3 applications of Neosporin a day have to be doing some good, right?
Have been thinking a lot about my friends Sarah and Al who I came here last time with. Makes me smile every time I see an ad for a camper van or think about sky diving. I was lucky to have such good people around. Hope that luck continues.
Oh. One of the guys at the hostel insisted that I look like Demi Moore. This is a huge ego boost compared to my typical doppelganger, Ellen Page. No offense meant, Ellen.
