Hour 5 of the sandfly invasion. They've surrounded the campground and those of us sad souls who call this earth home for the night are bunkering down. Maybe for the long haul. We've taken injuries, but we'll know better in the morning how hard we've been hit. Even the long underwear armor can't protect all of you. Lost blood and dignity litters this valley. Save yourself. Take no prisoners.
Oh, and Aspiring National Park is awful pretty.
I have to admit that I may have had my best Valentines weekend ever, although I was without my Valentine. Downhill mountain biking with minimal crashes, cribbage games with maximum smack talk, beer, beach, and my first time paragliding (it turns out that picking up hitch hikers brings along great karma)! Details will follow, but just have to say it's been difficult to stop smiling today. Finally ran into some friends from home and spent time with strangers who made me want to be a better person.
Fingers crossed the good weather continues and I can get one more long backpacking trip in!
The past few days have felt really difficult for no good reason. I've seen more of this beautiful country, been in the company of three good hearted travel companions, and received lots of love from home. But an overwhelming need to return looms in my heart and I feel like time has flown by since January 1st. A sense of guilt sets in for not embracing the "be here now" mindset and living for the future.
Four trail walkers and I went to see the movie Wild this week. I bought the book almost two weeks ago in Christchurch, but hadn't started it out of stubbornness and the want to get through other brain candy. After the movie though, I've been completely absorbed in the book. I don't have a firm opinion yet, but I have 40 more pages until I'll have to process the book as a whole. It's funny to me that this book means more in my life right this second than the actual experiences I've lived this last week. This book has had me stealing off to my tiny orange tent for another chapter, sitting silently in the car without hearing the talk going on around me, and brought me to tears when sitting alone at a penguin viewing overlook. All I can say is that Wild has moved me in a way that I didn't expect.
Rather than giving into foul humors last night, I sat down and made a list of the things I've learned in the past 2 and a half months. They are as follows:
Trust in the kindness of strangers.
Starving is for supermodels and survival situations.
Don't let your mental blocks hold back your physical abilities.
You're allowed to have bad days.
Go with your gut and take advice lightly.
Compliments sound different when coming from other cultures.
Don't take more than you're comfortable carrying. Both literally and figuratively.
Give your mind a chance to rest the same as you would your body.
Speak honestly, though gently if you have ill to say.
Treasure the small comforts so the big discomforts don't seem so bad.
You don't need much, but have the right things. Don't sacrifice necessities.
I don't know what lies ahead the next ten days, but mountain biking and a few days back in Wanaka are guaranteed. Looking into solo hiking an alpine route between Wanaka and Queenstown, which should take up most of the time before my return home.
It's a little early for the 14th, but sending lots of love across the Pacific.
Just feeling very thankful today for the opportunity to be here and to have met some wonderful people. From kava ceremonies in Richmond huts with Lasma and Tucker to cribbage games over tea with Paul and Patrick to long conversations about NZ conservation with Malcolm, it's been great. Even with being surrounded by people all the time, there's plenty of room to breathe and grow here.
After Hanmer Springs, I was able to crash at a complete stranger's house on the outskirts of Christchurch. Patrick had met a fellow Alaskan randomly one day on the trail, and the guy offered him a place to crash if he came to the city. The fellow is named Paul and grew up in Seward but fell in love with and married a Kiwi girl back when he was in his traveling days. The two of them and their 3 kids moved over about a year ago and now have an amazing place out in the country.
Paul's wife and kids were visiting family down south last week, so he was happy to take in two strays and we traded accommodation for some chores done around the house. He made homemade pizza from scratch both nights with a huge, fresh salad from the garden. We got in a few games of cribbage after dinner last night. It is so refreshing to not have to share space with tons of other people like in the huts or at hostels. Nice to clean an area and know it will be clean when you come back to it. Paul's kindness is and was above and beyond.
Went into the city one of the days to meet Michaela (whom I spent time with in Auckland) for coffee before her flight home and pick up a rental car. Patrick and I are taking 2 weeks to drive down to Queenstown and hopefully get some good day hikes in around Fjordland. Since he's been hiking since October, the thought of driving long distances and having a place to store your stuff during the day is blowing his mind. Just being able to carry fresh food is a fun change! I'm glad to have someone around for a bit who is mellow and down to explore.
From Christchurch, we drove west and stayed two nights around Arthurs Pass. First night was under a bridge below Cave Stream and the second was spent in a mouse infested hut on the short Bealy Spur Track. Traded sand flies for mice in our food. The area was incredible, but didn't sleep well either night. Hiked up to Castle Hill, did some amateur spelunking in Cave Stream, checked out Devils something or other Falls... Basically, squeezed in a lot of the short, easy hikes. Fun to play tourist and drink Chai in a cafe some mornings!
Once again, Patrick is the social butterfly and the first two hitchhikers we picked up turned out to be 2 paragliders that he camped with in Nelson Lakes. The weather had turned and they were buying time in towns before setting off for their next jump spot. Gill and Mags; charming couple and really fun! We gave them a ride one day to the town of Arthurs Pass and after bumping into them again the next day, a ride to Greymouth on the coast. Shared a beer and lunch at the brewery and then split ways; they headed back and we went north towards Westport to find some beach camping. Possibly my favorite spot so far... There was a break in the overcast clouds just in time for sunset and you could glimpse the waxing moon.
Woke up to light rain and threw everything in the car. Looped around thru the country back to Greymouth and went on a short hike in an old mining area. Found the track half on accident. We were looking for a break spot to get out and stretch our legs and I followed a random sign for a lookout. The lookout road was closed, but I decided to just drive up an old logging (er, mining) road and see what we could find. Turned out to be a really cool detour with about an hour of rain-free outdoor time!
Continued to Hokitika in time for lunch. Walked around town and checked out the Driftwood and Sand Art Festival on the beach. Clear skies and perfect temps made for a good afternoon of lying in the grass and walking along the surf. I also received some great news: I was accepted to Oregon State's forestry graduate program. Starts up next fall and don't know any details yet, but exciting news!
Spent the evening up near Hotitika Gorge and hid in the car for 2 hours after setting up camp to escape the sand flies. My feet are covered in bites despite wearing long underwear almost 24/7 and socks under my flip flops. The epitome of high fashion in summer! Killer combo when combined with unwashed hair.
Drove all day yesterday in POURING rain to try and see the coastal glaciers. Ran out to Franz Josef, but we hit a lightning cell at Fox and couldn't see a thing. Figured we were wet enough after an hour or so in the downpour and didn't feel like camping in soaked tents and soggy sleeping bags for the 5th night in a row, so rode on til Wanaka. The roads were starting to flood and the rain came down so hard sometimes that you couldn't see the lines on the road. Saw one car in the ditch, so I'm happy that we made it safely.
Got a sweet room at the local holiday park last night and managed to have enough space to spread out all our damp gear and sort our trash out. Wonderful, unlimited time in HOT showers and a mini fridge to keep our beer in. Luxury.
Loving the weather today and have been taking care of business back home in the sunshine! Feels good to be in Wanaka. My favorite memories from my last NZ trip were from here! Could definitely see myself living in this area. Tomorrow, heading south again and hopefully towards more backpacking and hut hopping.
Cheers!
Somehow the time slips away too quickly when I'm in town, so this will be brief. I finished my third section two days ago going through Nelson Lakes National Park. 113 km in 6 days. Was my favorite part of New Zealand so far with amazing scenery and a fun, social hiking group. Took my time with the area due to nervousness about the big pass, but it was easy after Richmond. One steep climb up a tall scree slope and then side hill and down climbing on solid rock. Waaay better than trying to surf scree down.
The weather was pretty much perfect. Brought more food and could actually afford to make double dinners some nights! Extra servings of instant mashed potatoes and dehydrated peas do a lot for morale, it turns out...
Too many things to mention. Clumsy creek crossings, the clearest lake in the world, snuggling into huts in stormy weather, perfect bluebird day over the pass, miles and miles of river valley hiking, all the bloody Germans, hiking friends I won't forget anytime soon. Oh, and Afghans. The best chocolate cookie I've ever come across...
Four of us popped out of the woods and came up to Hanmer Springs for a rest day. Hot springs, comfy backpacker accommodation, beer, greasy food, the works. Two of the guys are hitting trail again today, but Patrick from Alaska and I are going to hitch to Arthurs Pass. I told him about Cave Stream that I hiked last time I was in country, and we're going to try and hit it up before some wet weather moves in. Abandoning the Te Araroa for now, but wanting to make it south with plenty of time to hike down there. Should have time to come back up and do the next TA section before I fly home at the end of February.
One month left! Cheers y'all.
