All good things must come to an end!
I fly out of Lima tonight around midnight and start my travels back back to Cali Cali. It's been a great trip with the perfect mix of movement and relaxing. My mind has been a blur of thoughts the last 3 days; worrying about making it back to Lima in time, seeing Nazca and the central coast, wondering how much money I spent over the course of the last 3 weeks (Machu Picchu, you trap for cash, you), and generally just getting TOTALLY PUMPED to come home.
Since Arequipa, we took a loooooong bus ride to Nazca in order to fly over the Nazca lines. Arequipa itself was different from what I expected. It's actually a shame we didn't stay longer than a day; the city itself is easily walkable and everybody, true to form of Peru, was very friendly. We took a guided tour of an old convent. Literally, a city within the city. The tour lasted an hour and we walked back through the entire complex to explore on our own. Started by a rich widow from Spain, the convent was originally set up for wealthy daughters of families that had moved to the Arequipa and central Peru region. Due to all the money coming in, the nuns actually had their own houses and residences set up along cute streets within the complex. Each nun had 1 to 4 servants attending her...crazy, right? However, some party-crashing Mother Superior had to come along and demand that the convent return to normal operations and forced all the nuns to move into a communal dorm and do all their own chores. Sorry nuns. Life's not fair sometimes. In any case, it was a great way to spend an afternoon and get acquainted with some local history.
After that loooooong bus ride to Nazca, we were approached at the bus station by someone offering to walk us over to a "good hostel". So, for a bit of insight into our trip, I have been rather against accepting offers for lodging from solicitors whenever we arrive somewhere. Peter has had an opposite view, and we've followed these strangers fairly often. And, low and behold, most often these hostels are in fact incredible (hot showers, cheap rates, AND two beds) which totally puts Peter in the right for trusting complete strangers. Don't always listen to your guidebook, ladies and gents. Sometimes it is awesome to just jump in a cab and see where someone you've just met takes you. But yes, back to Nazca. Out in the middle of a coastal desert, the only main attraction is the flight tours of the lines. We had anticipated hanging out during the day and seeing the town, but after our flight, we realized that there really wasn't much to the town. We hopped on the next bus to take us to Lima and enjoyed a 7 hour ride. (Also, shout out to our random stranger in Nazca who helped us get our hostel, book our flight, get us to the airport, and found us a bus out of town on Sunday...which apparently means the computers are down and so you have to jump on the right bus with a bunch of locals. You, sir, really helped out two gringos.)
And so we made it to Lima with 2 days to spare. Our guidebook did come through for us and we found an awesome hostel next to the beach in the neighborhood of Barranco. We spent yesterday walking along the cliffs overlooking the shore and sought out Peter's favorite churro stand. After a quiet afternoon, we walked the block over to the central park and found a bar with free pool. Definitely in the low of tourist season; we were the only ones in the place for quite some time. More beer for us! Ah Cusquena...I will miss you. It's nice to see an entire country that has a decent national brew.
Things to take away from this trip? IMPROVE SPANISH-SPEAKING SKILLS. Appreciate what I have and celebrate what I've earned. IMPROVE SPANISH. Get rid of all the excess of stuff that I own. I mean, I've easily lived out of a backpack that barely weighs 20 lbs for 3 weeks. Work helped with this minimalist lifestyle too. IMPROVE SPANISH. Get back into music...I had to sing an American song when we were on the Titicaca lake tour, and I impressed myself by remembering the lyrics to the American lullaby All the Pretty Horses. Did a decent job of singing in front of a crowd of people too! I forget how happy music makes me, and I really don't want to lose the time for it in my life. IMPROVE SPANISH. Just relax. I get so high strung at home trying to balance everything, and the last 3 weeks were really good practice at remaining cool while getting everything taken care of. No meltdowns, minimal bad moods, and took a lot of opportunities to try new things. I think that's probably the most important personal lesson I've taken away...aside from IMPROVE MY SPANISH.
Back into the mindset of winter and rain! See yáll stateside!
Until next time!
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Friday, November 30, 2012
Puno and Beyond
I´m amazed at how much time we ended up spending in Cusco. Looking back, most of our time was spent in or around that one town. It was my favorite place we´ve been so far in terms of the people, the city itself, and the surrounding countryside. Easy to hike up into the hills for a day as well as walk and walk and walk deep into the heart of the city. As a local said to me, there is the Cusco that the tourists know and then there is the REAL Cusco. Except for the one night spent near the Plaza de Armas, we mostly stayed outside of the overly touristy areas...with the exception of the days where we craved greasy British food.
We did eventually leave, though. Three Kiwis recommended a tour bus service for Cusco to Puno that offered guided tours in English and a buffet lunch along the way. However, they got their tickets at a steal and Peter and I agreed that paying full cost didn´t quite make the ride worth it. I did enjoy the arch sites though! I´ve been doing self-guided tours through all the places we´ve visited, and it was nice to hear about the history of some of the ancient Inca sites. It´s amazing to see just how much tourism supports many Peruvians. EVERYWHERE you go, people are trying to hawk their wares or sell you water or are just begging for change. I´ve never felt like more of a walking money bag. My skin color is a dead giveaway that I´m a tourist and I can see people beeline for me, although I think Peter sometimes gets it worse with his blonde hair and blue eyes.
Puno was really interesting! Coming down into the city, I wasn´t sure what to expect. From the bus depot, two women offered to grab us a cab and it turns out that they work for the hostel we were trying to get to. A large group of about 15 kids had snagged all the rooms though, so they recommended us to another hotel close to the central plaza. The room itself was one of the nicer and cheaper places we´ve stayed, although we came to realize at about 9 PM that it´s adjacent to a karaoke bar and the walls were a tad thinner than one would hope. Earplugs were on my essentials list while packing, so I was set. Poor Peter was woken up a couple times, but luckily they shut down relatively early.
The next morning, we boarded a boat tour for the floating islands of Uros and a large island out in the main part of Lake Titicaca (Tierces? I´ll have to double-check). Out of at least 30 people, Peter and I were the only English speakers and Peter was the only one who didn´t understand any Spanish. Thankfully, two Italians who had lived in Ireland for awhile also asked to hear the tour in English so Peter was able to understand the guide. Such an awesome experience! They went over the construction on the floating islands, the reasoning for the culture to move out onto the lake itself, and social aspects of the culture. Forester nerd moment: they used a crosscut saw to shape pieces of sod which support the base of the islands. Definitely a new way to use a crosscut that I hadn´t seen before.
The big island was gorgeous. Imagine California wine country paired with Italian countryside on an island in a sapphire blue lake. We walked the length of the island and it was amazing to see one side of the lake that belonged to Bolivia and the other side which was Peru. White peaked mountains teased us from the Bolivian side; everyone who has traveled around the lake told us that the Bolivian area is much more impressive.
Something that´s bothered me a lot this trip has been authenticity. I am constantly wondering how much of what I´m shown is true Peruvian culture and what is blown out of proportion for tourists. This is the main reason why I haven´t done many guided tours. Walking on the outskirts of town and looking out of the windows on long bus rides has given me a good idea though. The day Peter and I sat on the wall overlooking the fields of Pisac has still been considered one of my favorite afternoons, mainly because nobody treated us like foreigners or acted differently. More recently, when we were driving by some fields in a tour bus, I noticed some farmers standing around grouped up out in the field. As we got closer, they started frenzily working. As we passed, our guide pointed them out. I don´t know the connection between the tour companies and locals, but this was just too weird to me...
But yes! Puno was awesome. Met some Germans, Aussies, and another American after our tour and had a fun night of drinking Pisco and playing Jenga and card games. I guess the Germans had just been taught the game President (or King in their case) and Asshole and insisted on playing for hours; brought back a lot of good camping memories for me! Peter and I boarded another (non-tourist, thank god!) bus for Arequipa yesterday and rode for 6 very long, sweltering hours. We´re staying at the sister hostel to the place we loved in Cusco, and so far, it´s living up to expectations. Cheap, clean, and includes breakfast! Probably only staying for today and leave for Nazca tomorrow. We only really stopped here so that Peter can visit his bank; he lost his ATM card the day we left for the Sacred Valley. Between cash his parents forwarded him at a Western Union and me spotting him, he´s been good up until we could make it to a city where his bank is...which was either Arequipa or back to Lima.
We´re so close to the end. I happened to glance at my flight info the other morning, which was good, because I guess I´m flying out really late Tuesday night rather than early Wednesday morning... This doesn´t change our plans very much with the exception that we might get a bus to Lima on Tuesday and then I´ll go straight to the airport that evening rather than getting a hotel. Should be landing around 9:45 AM in SFO; it´ll be nice to not lose a day. Have packing and moving to look forward to upon my return.
Until next time!
We did eventually leave, though. Three Kiwis recommended a tour bus service for Cusco to Puno that offered guided tours in English and a buffet lunch along the way. However, they got their tickets at a steal and Peter and I agreed that paying full cost didn´t quite make the ride worth it. I did enjoy the arch sites though! I´ve been doing self-guided tours through all the places we´ve visited, and it was nice to hear about the history of some of the ancient Inca sites. It´s amazing to see just how much tourism supports many Peruvians. EVERYWHERE you go, people are trying to hawk their wares or sell you water or are just begging for change. I´ve never felt like more of a walking money bag. My skin color is a dead giveaway that I´m a tourist and I can see people beeline for me, although I think Peter sometimes gets it worse with his blonde hair and blue eyes.
Puno was really interesting! Coming down into the city, I wasn´t sure what to expect. From the bus depot, two women offered to grab us a cab and it turns out that they work for the hostel we were trying to get to. A large group of about 15 kids had snagged all the rooms though, so they recommended us to another hotel close to the central plaza. The room itself was one of the nicer and cheaper places we´ve stayed, although we came to realize at about 9 PM that it´s adjacent to a karaoke bar and the walls were a tad thinner than one would hope. Earplugs were on my essentials list while packing, so I was set. Poor Peter was woken up a couple times, but luckily they shut down relatively early.
The next morning, we boarded a boat tour for the floating islands of Uros and a large island out in the main part of Lake Titicaca (Tierces? I´ll have to double-check). Out of at least 30 people, Peter and I were the only English speakers and Peter was the only one who didn´t understand any Spanish. Thankfully, two Italians who had lived in Ireland for awhile also asked to hear the tour in English so Peter was able to understand the guide. Such an awesome experience! They went over the construction on the floating islands, the reasoning for the culture to move out onto the lake itself, and social aspects of the culture. Forester nerd moment: they used a crosscut saw to shape pieces of sod which support the base of the islands. Definitely a new way to use a crosscut that I hadn´t seen before.
The big island was gorgeous. Imagine California wine country paired with Italian countryside on an island in a sapphire blue lake. We walked the length of the island and it was amazing to see one side of the lake that belonged to Bolivia and the other side which was Peru. White peaked mountains teased us from the Bolivian side; everyone who has traveled around the lake told us that the Bolivian area is much more impressive.
Something that´s bothered me a lot this trip has been authenticity. I am constantly wondering how much of what I´m shown is true Peruvian culture and what is blown out of proportion for tourists. This is the main reason why I haven´t done many guided tours. Walking on the outskirts of town and looking out of the windows on long bus rides has given me a good idea though. The day Peter and I sat on the wall overlooking the fields of Pisac has still been considered one of my favorite afternoons, mainly because nobody treated us like foreigners or acted differently. More recently, when we were driving by some fields in a tour bus, I noticed some farmers standing around grouped up out in the field. As we got closer, they started frenzily working. As we passed, our guide pointed them out. I don´t know the connection between the tour companies and locals, but this was just too weird to me...
But yes! Puno was awesome. Met some Germans, Aussies, and another American after our tour and had a fun night of drinking Pisco and playing Jenga and card games. I guess the Germans had just been taught the game President (or King in their case) and Asshole and insisted on playing for hours; brought back a lot of good camping memories for me! Peter and I boarded another (non-tourist, thank god!) bus for Arequipa yesterday and rode for 6 very long, sweltering hours. We´re staying at the sister hostel to the place we loved in Cusco, and so far, it´s living up to expectations. Cheap, clean, and includes breakfast! Probably only staying for today and leave for Nazca tomorrow. We only really stopped here so that Peter can visit his bank; he lost his ATM card the day we left for the Sacred Valley. Between cash his parents forwarded him at a Western Union and me spotting him, he´s been good up until we could make it to a city where his bank is...which was either Arequipa or back to Lima.
We´re so close to the end. I happened to glance at my flight info the other morning, which was good, because I guess I´m flying out really late Tuesday night rather than early Wednesday morning... This doesn´t change our plans very much with the exception that we might get a bus to Lima on Tuesday and then I´ll go straight to the airport that evening rather than getting a hotel. Should be landing around 9:45 AM in SFO; it´ll be nice to not lose a day. Have packing and moving to look forward to upon my return.
Until next time!
Monday, November 26, 2012
Over the Hump
So, to be expected, plans slightly changed. On Saturdy evening, I met two locals who were also planning on vacationing in the jungle for 5 days. They invited us to join rather than go off by ourselves to Santa Teresa, which they commented as not being the best introduction to the Amazon anyways. I told the guys that I would run the idea by Peter and see if he wanted to spend half of our remaining time in the Amazon Basin with two strange guys I just met. After exchanging contact info, I met back up with Peter and asked him what he thought. He agreed we should at least check if the guys were still interested, so we delayed our departure and sent an e-mail. Either I copied their e-mail down wrong, they didn´t check their messages, or they decided they didn´t want to bring along 2 gringos after all, because we haven´t heard back. So nevermind about that whole jungle thing. It´ll have to wait until my next South American trip!
To be honest, it worked out for the best that we stayed an extra day in Cusco. Peter and I both woke up rather homesick and burnt out yesterday. As anticipated, the ´´hip´´ hostel downtown drove us up the wall so we returned to the quiet, simple hostel up on the hill in San Blas. We refreshed our spirits with some food from home, courtesy of Jack´s Cafe, and sat down with a young French couple last night to watch a movie. Too funny to have to change the language from Spanish to English and put on French subtitles. Taking a day to just sit and relax was needed and much appreciated.
Homesickness is a feeling I´m used to, but I never understand why I get it. It makes sense why it happens; your body and mind miss the familiar. But especially when I´m on these relatively short trips, it irritates me that my mind can´t get on board with the fact that the scenery is different only for a brief time. It was comforting to know that Peter´s hit at the same time and that a day was sufficient to say how much we miss our families and talk about what we´ll do when we return home. For the two of us, it was sad to miss Thanksgiving at home, especially since both our families wrote us saying what a good time was had. We´ll just have to make up for it during the December holidays I guess! Plus, I wouldn´t trade that day on Machu Picchu to be back home; there will be many more years of spending time with family and friends, and this year was remarkably special.
Today, we´ll be finding a bus to take us south to Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca. Should be a long ride, but Peter and I brought plenty of reading material. The drive is supposed to be beautiful too, although very cold when going over the mountains.
Until next time!
To be honest, it worked out for the best that we stayed an extra day in Cusco. Peter and I both woke up rather homesick and burnt out yesterday. As anticipated, the ´´hip´´ hostel downtown drove us up the wall so we returned to the quiet, simple hostel up on the hill in San Blas. We refreshed our spirits with some food from home, courtesy of Jack´s Cafe, and sat down with a young French couple last night to watch a movie. Too funny to have to change the language from Spanish to English and put on French subtitles. Taking a day to just sit and relax was needed and much appreciated.
Homesickness is a feeling I´m used to, but I never understand why I get it. It makes sense why it happens; your body and mind miss the familiar. But especially when I´m on these relatively short trips, it irritates me that my mind can´t get on board with the fact that the scenery is different only for a brief time. It was comforting to know that Peter´s hit at the same time and that a day was sufficient to say how much we miss our families and talk about what we´ll do when we return home. For the two of us, it was sad to miss Thanksgiving at home, especially since both our families wrote us saying what a good time was had. We´ll just have to make up for it during the December holidays I guess! Plus, I wouldn´t trade that day on Machu Picchu to be back home; there will be many more years of spending time with family and friends, and this year was remarkably special.
Today, we´ll be finding a bus to take us south to Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca. Should be a long ride, but Peter and I brought plenty of reading material. The drive is supposed to be beautiful too, although very cold when going over the mountains.
Until next time!
Saturday, November 24, 2012
The Sacred Valley
From Cusco to Ollaytaytambo to Machu Picchu to Pisac and back to Cusco; it´s been a busy few days.
Peter and I took a collectivo taxi/bus into the Sacred Valley and stayed in Ollaytaytambo for two nights. A very quaint tourist town, it features Inca ruins on the two hillsides bordering the square. Our first afternoon in town consisted of booking train tickets for Aguas Calientes (the gateway town to Machu Picchu) and locating a hostal. We ended up staying in a hotel run by two brothers and an English girlfriend. In order to get up early for our train in the morning, we slipped off to bed shortly after dark. However, another group of VERY noisy travelers were up at 4 AM and woke up the entire establishment. By the time that Peter and I were ready to head out for the day around 5:30 AM, we realized that we were locked in. Unbeknownst to us, the place was locked and completely closed off every night until the brothers woke up in the morning. Gently knocking on windows, we shyly awoke our host to let us out to the street. Great start to the day, right?
While Machu Picchu is completely worth the money and time to get to, it has definitely become the ultimate tourist trap. There is an expensive entrance fee on top of an expensive train ride to Aguas Calientes on top of another fee if you take the bus to the entrance rather than hiking the 1/2 mile straight up...which if you plan on doing ANY hiking on the mountain, you´ll be wanting to take the bus. Luckily, we met an American couple (Kim & Matt) the evening before when we were booking our train tickets. Between the 4 of us, we were able to get over the language barrier and figure out where the hell we were supposed to be and what we had to do next. All of us also bought a further expensive on the entrance ticket by getting the `Machu Picchu Mountain`add-on. What an amazing hike! Straight up for an hour and a half (at a slow pace with frequent stops), you end the hike on a peak overlooking the city and the Temple of the Moon. Literally at cloud level, you can see every direction around for miles. Peter and I shared a lunch of bananas, mandarins, and empeñadas at the top and shared our bounty with the other two who had been warned by the guidebook to not bring food (or extra water). Luckily, we brought quite a bit of extra food just in case.
After exploring the city with hundreds of other tourists, we caught our return bus to Aguas Calientes and enjoyed a well earned beer and hearty lunch. After a couple hours of chatting, we walked around the town to kill some time before our evening train. While passing beneath a bar, three people leaned out and told us that the happy hour deals were worth it and to come join them. With a request like that, how can you pass it up? Up we went, and to our delight and surprise, found that the three were LA residents and two were from Paris orginally. With a cheers or two to Thanksgiving and our loved ones back home, we enjoyed Pisco Sours as the sun set and chatted about places to check out. Kim, Matt, Peter, and I bade our goodbyes quickly as we realized our train had arrived at the station and rushed down to hop back on for a dark ride back to Ollaytaytambo. Definitely a day to remember.
Since Machu Picchu, Peter and I have spent our time hiking old Inca ruins next to towns in the Sacred Valley and just enjoying the countryside. Yesterday, we found an old stone wall on the outskirts of Pisac and spent hours just talking and observing the locals walk and work through the corn fields. We both commented on the fact of how strange it is to travel; seems like most of your time is spent just walking, sleeping, and eating. We`re both REALLY enjoying the vacation, although in typical Williams fashion, I look forward to a productive routine when I return home. In order to keep my idle hands happy, I´ve been dragging Peter along on long hikes every morning. Today, we explored all the hills behind Pisac. Que bonita! The views of the Andes are definitely nothing to scoff at.
And now we´re back in Cusco for the night. To mix up the style of lodging and lodgers, we´re staying at one of those tragically hip hostels close to the central plaza. We´ve both commented on the fact that this will probably be the only night where we can tolerate the loud music and young crowd. Tomorrow, up to Santa Teresa to get a taste of the jungle and locate an impressive hot springs complex. Despite a horrible sunburn on the back of my neck from Machu Picchu, I plan on wearing a bathing suit at least once this trip. After that, we´ll be quickly making our way south and working back towards Lima.
Scary to think we´re already half-way thru our trip. Still have to see Lake Titicaca, Nazca, and Arequipa. Soon enough, I guess?
Still happy and healthy and so psyched to try my hand at making empeñadas at home!
¡Until next time!
Peter and I took a collectivo taxi/bus into the Sacred Valley and stayed in Ollaytaytambo for two nights. A very quaint tourist town, it features Inca ruins on the two hillsides bordering the square. Our first afternoon in town consisted of booking train tickets for Aguas Calientes (the gateway town to Machu Picchu) and locating a hostal. We ended up staying in a hotel run by two brothers and an English girlfriend. In order to get up early for our train in the morning, we slipped off to bed shortly after dark. However, another group of VERY noisy travelers were up at 4 AM and woke up the entire establishment. By the time that Peter and I were ready to head out for the day around 5:30 AM, we realized that we were locked in. Unbeknownst to us, the place was locked and completely closed off every night until the brothers woke up in the morning. Gently knocking on windows, we shyly awoke our host to let us out to the street. Great start to the day, right?
While Machu Picchu is completely worth the money and time to get to, it has definitely become the ultimate tourist trap. There is an expensive entrance fee on top of an expensive train ride to Aguas Calientes on top of another fee if you take the bus to the entrance rather than hiking the 1/2 mile straight up...which if you plan on doing ANY hiking on the mountain, you´ll be wanting to take the bus. Luckily, we met an American couple (Kim & Matt) the evening before when we were booking our train tickets. Between the 4 of us, we were able to get over the language barrier and figure out where the hell we were supposed to be and what we had to do next. All of us also bought a further expensive on the entrance ticket by getting the `Machu Picchu Mountain`add-on. What an amazing hike! Straight up for an hour and a half (at a slow pace with frequent stops), you end the hike on a peak overlooking the city and the Temple of the Moon. Literally at cloud level, you can see every direction around for miles. Peter and I shared a lunch of bananas, mandarins, and empeñadas at the top and shared our bounty with the other two who had been warned by the guidebook to not bring food (or extra water). Luckily, we brought quite a bit of extra food just in case.
After exploring the city with hundreds of other tourists, we caught our return bus to Aguas Calientes and enjoyed a well earned beer and hearty lunch. After a couple hours of chatting, we walked around the town to kill some time before our evening train. While passing beneath a bar, three people leaned out and told us that the happy hour deals were worth it and to come join them. With a request like that, how can you pass it up? Up we went, and to our delight and surprise, found that the three were LA residents and two were from Paris orginally. With a cheers or two to Thanksgiving and our loved ones back home, we enjoyed Pisco Sours as the sun set and chatted about places to check out. Kim, Matt, Peter, and I bade our goodbyes quickly as we realized our train had arrived at the station and rushed down to hop back on for a dark ride back to Ollaytaytambo. Definitely a day to remember.
Since Machu Picchu, Peter and I have spent our time hiking old Inca ruins next to towns in the Sacred Valley and just enjoying the countryside. Yesterday, we found an old stone wall on the outskirts of Pisac and spent hours just talking and observing the locals walk and work through the corn fields. We both commented on the fact of how strange it is to travel; seems like most of your time is spent just walking, sleeping, and eating. We`re both REALLY enjoying the vacation, although in typical Williams fashion, I look forward to a productive routine when I return home. In order to keep my idle hands happy, I´ve been dragging Peter along on long hikes every morning. Today, we explored all the hills behind Pisac. Que bonita! The views of the Andes are definitely nothing to scoff at.
And now we´re back in Cusco for the night. To mix up the style of lodging and lodgers, we´re staying at one of those tragically hip hostels close to the central plaza. We´ve both commented on the fact that this will probably be the only night where we can tolerate the loud music and young crowd. Tomorrow, up to Santa Teresa to get a taste of the jungle and locate an impressive hot springs complex. Despite a horrible sunburn on the back of my neck from Machu Picchu, I plan on wearing a bathing suit at least once this trip. After that, we´ll be quickly making our way south and working back towards Lima.
Scary to think we´re already half-way thru our trip. Still have to see Lake Titicaca, Nazca, and Arequipa. Soon enough, I guess?
Still happy and healthy and so psyched to try my hand at making empeñadas at home!
¡Until next time!
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Cusco
Cusco was exactly what was hoped for. Snuggled in a valley with meandering streets that seem to go on forever, it´s a very sweet town. When we first arrived, we were greeted by blue skies and beautiful cummulus build-up beyond the mountains. Both nights so far have impressed us with EPIC lightning storms. Just after sunset, you can watch the southern sky grow black and flickers of lightning start moving towards the city. The first evening we were lucky to make the trek up the hill to our hostel just in time before the rain began to pour. Yesterday, knowing the look of the sky, we booked it as soon as the clouds began to darken. A good thing too! Hail the size of BB´s accompanied the rain and found all the cracks in the roof of our lodging´s 3rd floor sunroom. Even the old manager of the hostel was impressed. I helped him go around finding leaks in the ceiling and placing buckets underneath the worse spots. I think this is one of the few places where I´ll be thanked for being tall enough to reach the ceiling...
As a matter of fact, the size difference between the gringos and locals has really impressed me. I´ve caught myself many times making way for someone I believe to be a child, just to notice that it´s a middle-aged woman with a baby bound to her back. The local women are incredible athletes, for the record. Running up and down the hills and stairs, often with a 20 lbs child strapped on, while pulling along a grumpy alpaca. Yesterday, I started my day with a solo hike up the small hill next to town to check out some ruins. However, after reaching the top, the hilltop opposite the overcrowded tourist trap looked much more appealling. No gringos, no noise, and a great view overlooking the ruins and the small valley below to boot. Two local women came and sat with me for a bit, exchanging smiles and attempts at conversation. After they moved on, a friendly group of dogs came by and begged for attention I was more than happy to give. Exactly the kind of Zen I´ve been missing.
In terms of adjusting to the altitude, we´ve been ok thus far. Peter is definitely struggling with all the stairs, but he´s making a valid effort to explore despite empty lungs and a light head. The hike up the hill yesterday left me seeing stars at one point, but a quick rest and a slower pace set me right again. Hiking all summer definitely paid off; I´m thankful that my muscles haven´t cramped with all the walking and my lungs are staying clear.
One of my favorite parts of traveling is getting insight into other´s mindsets. During the storm last night, a group of us sat down for the show and discussed the end of humanity over beer and Pisco. The difference between two Americans, one Aussie, and a Peruvian opinion was really refreshing. Everything from complete pessimism to a hopeful future. Our host had a surprising comment last night: ´´Many of the mental diseases and problems that afflict your people haven´t come here yet. They´re starting to be more common, though.´´ It was very ironic (and true) to me that he associated wealth and a high standard of living with traits such as depression, social anxiety, and general social ineptitude. He said the way that people hide away in their homes up north is not at all common here in Peru. The idea that someone couldn´t do their own grocery shopping or hold a simple conversation is a completely foreign idea here, whereas I can think of many examples of people back in the States who deal with these issues everday. A common topic of conversation amongst us gringos has been ´´what does it take to make a person happy?´´ Seems like a logical train of thought considering many of us are taking these trips just to escape life back home or change lifestyles that just don´t seem to offer enough in terms of personal fulfillment. You can guess that the stereotypical idea of a house, kids, and nice car aren´t on the list for most of us...or we at least agree that you can´t judge your life based on whether or not you´ve acquired these things. And yes, I´m qualifying kids as ´´things´´ in this case. My apologies to my potential future offspring.
After this last week, I also think I´m ready to do a solo trip in the future. Everyday here inspires me to improve my Spanish; definitely think I´ll be taking some classes when I get back to the States. With a little more help with the dialect, I´m confident that traveling alone will be a welcome experience. After all, what is the point of traveling if not exploring the independence and true freedom of not being tied down to a person, place, or object? ´´Be here now.´´
In summary, one awesome week down. Looking forward to the next 2 and taking home the lessons I´m learning.
Until next time!
Forester note: lots of eucalyptus here...which was not expected. Not sure if they use them for pulp or just as windbreaks. Note to self: ask someone ´why all the Euc?´
Saturday, November 17, 2012
Lima
So...made it safely to Lima! The flight down was relatively normal with the minor exception of some heavy turbulence while coming across Central America. First time I´ve been on a plane where everyone actually screamed from the drop; felt sorry for the two young brothers sitting in front of me. The younger of the two would cower in his brother´s arms whenever the ride began to get shakey again. Ironically, I´d been reading about plane crashes moments before the rough air hit...definitely like reading ghost stories right before going to bed.
After landing, I met Peter in the airport and we went through customs with no difficulty. Peter booked us a hotel room in Central Lima ahead of time and there was an incredibly kind taxi driver from the hotel awaiting us. He made sure to lock the doors after we climbed in and gave us a late night tour on the way to the hotel. Pointing out museums, important plazas, and main avenues, he and I were able to trade travel information with our rudimentry english and spanish skills. The hotel itself is fantastic! It´s a renovated mansion with many different floors, pavillions, and patios. Literally only 3 blocks from the central square and palace, we have our own room with an attached bathroom. The sound of traffic (especially persistent car horns) and peacocks has woken us up every morning. There are 2 peacocks, 2 macaws, and at least 4 turtles that live on the patio adjacent to our room. Quite the menagerie!
First day was spent exploring the immediate neighborhood. Lots of art and religious museums, cathedrals, plazas, and even catecombs. We have had some english guides, but for the most part, I´ve been trying to translate basic explanations of exhibits for Peter. So thankful I took Spanish in high school...a little learned has definitely helped a long ways. Thus far, no major communication hold-ups yet. I´m able to order food for the two of us and follow basic directions from passerbyers. However, for some reason, Peter has had somewhat bad luck with food. Seems like they often forget his food or never even bother to take his order. Just today at lunch, the waiter asked me for my order and then walked off, leaving Peter to ask `What just happened?`
Yesterday and today have been filled of exploring the neighborhoods of Miraflores and Barranco next to the coast. Totaled about 8 miles of walking yesterday; decided to jump on a bus to save most of the distance today. Lots of walking, churros, and taking in the city. I suppose I imagined more of a Mediterranean-look to the city and, while some parts definitely cater to my preconceptions, most of the city is a gritty realization of poverty and high population. Beautiful mansions and palaces literally crumbling on crowded, narrow streets. The smell of sewage and fish so strong in some neighborhoods that it takes you aback. Political demonstrations in the evening on many plazas. The strongest impressions though are of the people; so friendly and family-orientated. Everyone has been very kind so far and we receive many more smiles than frowns. I hope this understand attitude continues to follow us for the rest of our trip...
Tomorrow we fly across the country to Cusco, tourist captial of Peru. After scanning Peter´s guidebook, I´m preparing myself for more panderers and aggressive tourist traps. Can´t wait to see the area around Cusco though! Big cities are not for me; ready for the peace of mind that comes from being in the forest and open spaces.
On a separate (and slight) note, the antibiotics and steriods I started before flying down have been giving me the weirdest dreams. It´s very disorientating in the mornings to wake up and have to remember where I am and whether or not my dreams were real. Luckily, I´m on vacation. I can take a couple extra minutes without the rush of feeling like I need to get on with my day.
¡Until next time!
After landing, I met Peter in the airport and we went through customs with no difficulty. Peter booked us a hotel room in Central Lima ahead of time and there was an incredibly kind taxi driver from the hotel awaiting us. He made sure to lock the doors after we climbed in and gave us a late night tour on the way to the hotel. Pointing out museums, important plazas, and main avenues, he and I were able to trade travel information with our rudimentry english and spanish skills. The hotel itself is fantastic! It´s a renovated mansion with many different floors, pavillions, and patios. Literally only 3 blocks from the central square and palace, we have our own room with an attached bathroom. The sound of traffic (especially persistent car horns) and peacocks has woken us up every morning. There are 2 peacocks, 2 macaws, and at least 4 turtles that live on the patio adjacent to our room. Quite the menagerie!
First day was spent exploring the immediate neighborhood. Lots of art and religious museums, cathedrals, plazas, and even catecombs. We have had some english guides, but for the most part, I´ve been trying to translate basic explanations of exhibits for Peter. So thankful I took Spanish in high school...a little learned has definitely helped a long ways. Thus far, no major communication hold-ups yet. I´m able to order food for the two of us and follow basic directions from passerbyers. However, for some reason, Peter has had somewhat bad luck with food. Seems like they often forget his food or never even bother to take his order. Just today at lunch, the waiter asked me for my order and then walked off, leaving Peter to ask `What just happened?`
Yesterday and today have been filled of exploring the neighborhoods of Miraflores and Barranco next to the coast. Totaled about 8 miles of walking yesterday; decided to jump on a bus to save most of the distance today. Lots of walking, churros, and taking in the city. I suppose I imagined more of a Mediterranean-look to the city and, while some parts definitely cater to my preconceptions, most of the city is a gritty realization of poverty and high population. Beautiful mansions and palaces literally crumbling on crowded, narrow streets. The smell of sewage and fish so strong in some neighborhoods that it takes you aback. Political demonstrations in the evening on many plazas. The strongest impressions though are of the people; so friendly and family-orientated. Everyone has been very kind so far and we receive many more smiles than frowns. I hope this understand attitude continues to follow us for the rest of our trip...
Tomorrow we fly across the country to Cusco, tourist captial of Peru. After scanning Peter´s guidebook, I´m preparing myself for more panderers and aggressive tourist traps. Can´t wait to see the area around Cusco though! Big cities are not for me; ready for the peace of mind that comes from being in the forest and open spaces.
On a separate (and slight) note, the antibiotics and steriods I started before flying down have been giving me the weirdest dreams. It´s very disorientating in the mornings to wake up and have to remember where I am and whether or not my dreams were real. Luckily, I´m on vacation. I can take a couple extra minutes without the rush of feeling like I need to get on with my day.
¡Until next time!
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Pre-Peru
Next adventure: Peru.
Travel companion: Mr. Peter Crosta.
Departure: T-minus 8 days. Nov 14, 2012.
Length of visit: 3 weeks.
Excitement level: Through the roof.
Details to follow.
Travel companion: Mr. Peter Crosta.
Departure: T-minus 8 days. Nov 14, 2012.
Length of visit: 3 weeks.
Excitement level: Through the roof.
Details to follow.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Moving On
Tomorrow I officially move out of my Arcata apartment and head east on Highway 299. After spending 5 years in a place that feels as much a home as where I grew up, I'm moving over to Redding and Hat Creek, California to spend the next 6 (or so) months. Although there have been repeated rumors about me finding a permanent spot on the crew, I would honestly be more than happy to just work a full season. My back and forearm muscles cringe at the thought of working more than 6 months on an active handcrew.
Although this spring was very rough in terms of personal growth and life goal direction, it's been an amazing time. I've come to realize that traveling makes me very, very happy...especially when I have a wonderful home to return to. I had the opportunity this March to go up to Seattle and visit some of my dearest friends and family. My best friend Michelle helped me get in touch with my feminine side by staying up late gossiping about boys and reacquainted me with a curling iron.
I also spent a good deal of time with her best girlfriends from high school who have all grown into strong, beautiful women leading very interesting lives. Being in a male-dominated field, it's refreshing to see women bring strength into the office as well as the field. And family. My oh my, I still can't get over the treasure of discovering Chris and Anah. Not that I need an excuse to visit the Northwest, but they sure provide a strong one.
After Seattle, I met with my logging sports team in Corvallis, OR and also got to visit with my family and best friend's mother, Teri. It was so nice to see Teri settled and happy-as-a-calm in Oregon. She and my folks provided much needed support and mothering to my teammates; they were seen as angels out at the wet, cold arena when they provided dry towels, warm tea, and laundry service as well as hugs and compliments.
As for the actual competition, I was very proud of Humboldt. Overall, two of our teams took 4th and 5th. Personally, I received two 3rd places and a 5th as well as Best Dressed for the overall competition. Might have had something to do with this outfit...
In any case! Had a brilliant time and made some fantastic connections with competitors from other schools (much love to Cal Poly!). Next year the competition will be hosted in Montana, and I can't think of one thing that would make me miss it. Get to judge awesome competitors and free food? Book me a ticket!
Since then, I've been keeping busy. LOTS of hiking, camping, and small adventures. Went on a 3-day rafting trip on the Klamath with these two handsome Hot Shot devils.
We had originally expected to take on the 65 mile trip in 4 days, but the river was at high water and flowed much faster than we had thought. In either case, it was a riot! Reminded me why I love hanging around other firefighters so much. Good-hearted people who aren't afraid to tell it how it is. Made me excited to head back to my own crew!
So now, onto Lassen adventures in northeastern California! Already longing for beer floats down the Pit River, wakeboarding on Lake Shasta, crosscut bucking in the wilderness, and hiking all through the Sierras and Trinity area. Have said a lot of goodbyes in the past few days, but can't wait for all the welcome back hugs and good times!
Until next time,
Kate
Although this spring was very rough in terms of personal growth and life goal direction, it's been an amazing time. I've come to realize that traveling makes me very, very happy...especially when I have a wonderful home to return to. I had the opportunity this March to go up to Seattle and visit some of my dearest friends and family. My best friend Michelle helped me get in touch with my feminine side by staying up late gossiping about boys and reacquainted me with a curling iron.
I also spent a good deal of time with her best girlfriends from high school who have all grown into strong, beautiful women leading very interesting lives. Being in a male-dominated field, it's refreshing to see women bring strength into the office as well as the field. And family. My oh my, I still can't get over the treasure of discovering Chris and Anah. Not that I need an excuse to visit the Northwest, but they sure provide a strong one.
After Seattle, I met with my logging sports team in Corvallis, OR and also got to visit with my family and best friend's mother, Teri. It was so nice to see Teri settled and happy-as-a-calm in Oregon. She and my folks provided much needed support and mothering to my teammates; they were seen as angels out at the wet, cold arena when they provided dry towels, warm tea, and laundry service as well as hugs and compliments.
As for the actual competition, I was very proud of Humboldt. Overall, two of our teams took 4th and 5th. Personally, I received two 3rd places and a 5th as well as Best Dressed for the overall competition. Might have had something to do with this outfit...
In any case! Had a brilliant time and made some fantastic connections with competitors from other schools (much love to Cal Poly!). Next year the competition will be hosted in Montana, and I can't think of one thing that would make me miss it. Get to judge awesome competitors and free food? Book me a ticket!
Since then, I've been keeping busy. LOTS of hiking, camping, and small adventures. Went on a 3-day rafting trip on the Klamath with these two handsome Hot Shot devils.
We had originally expected to take on the 65 mile trip in 4 days, but the river was at high water and flowed much faster than we had thought. In either case, it was a riot! Reminded me why I love hanging around other firefighters so much. Good-hearted people who aren't afraid to tell it how it is. Made me excited to head back to my own crew!
So now, onto Lassen adventures in northeastern California! Already longing for beer floats down the Pit River, wakeboarding on Lake Shasta, crosscut bucking in the wilderness, and hiking all through the Sierras and Trinity area. Have said a lot of goodbyes in the past few days, but can't wait for all the welcome back hugs and good times!
Until next time,
Kate
Monday, February 27, 2012
Big Dreams and Days to Come
I've had quite a bit of time to sit around and daydream in the past two months. Most of the time I dream of future homes, occupations, and adventures. I wish that I could spend all day sketching the small cabin that I've created in the corners of my mind. Some inspiration has come from here: http://freecabinporn.com/. There are many variations with different components taking priority: a log stove or fireplace, cozy covered porch, window-seat, rocking chair, chicken coop, small garden, library, orchard around the house, wood-fired sauna... I retreat to this imaginary place almost every evening as I cuddle into my Arcata bed and dream of the future. Someday (hopefully sooner rather than later), I'll turn these daydreams into reality and build a perfect retreat in the Sierras.
It's funny...I lived in a garden studio for 2 years here at college, and while the living situation was not perfect, there were so many comforts in that small space. I remember waking up every morning to the song of birds outside my window and watching hummingbirds through my kitchen window as I washed up after meals. I remember the smell of flowers drifting through my open front door and my landlady's lab-poodle mix poking her nose in to beg for a piece of bacon...the sound of rain crashing down on the roof and me worrying that the little house would wash away with the winter storms. For all the stress and hassle of upkeep on the studio, most of my happiest memories here at school took place out of that one room home.
That being said, my new (although not so new after living here for 7 months) apartment offers so many sweet experiences! Although the lack of rain and snow is a worry for the California environment this season, it means that I wake up in a bath of sunshine every morning. I have been setting my alarm to wake up and enjoy the radiant spread that warms a whole corner of my room around 8 AM; it perfectly covers my bed and provides an ideal spot to slowly wake-up and read before rolling out. Another highlight: our small back porch. At first, I thought it was too small to use in any fashion except to house my tiny cedar sapling. Not true! The railing is a perfect bench and has been used as a seat to read, oil boots, paint toenails, and enjoy a beer on a warm winter day.
I never was one to realize how much a good home affects one's mood, but it's remarkable how the weather and your surroundings can brighten your day. For now, I'll keep daydreaming about chickens and rocking chairs and acres of fruit trees. But soon! So soon! I want to live my dreams and not spend so much time sitting around and making plans.
Until next time,
Kate
It's funny...I lived in a garden studio for 2 years here at college, and while the living situation was not perfect, there were so many comforts in that small space. I remember waking up every morning to the song of birds outside my window and watching hummingbirds through my kitchen window as I washed up after meals. I remember the smell of flowers drifting through my open front door and my landlady's lab-poodle mix poking her nose in to beg for a piece of bacon...the sound of rain crashing down on the roof and me worrying that the little house would wash away with the winter storms. For all the stress and hassle of upkeep on the studio, most of my happiest memories here at school took place out of that one room home.
That being said, my new (although not so new after living here for 7 months) apartment offers so many sweet experiences! Although the lack of rain and snow is a worry for the California environment this season, it means that I wake up in a bath of sunshine every morning. I have been setting my alarm to wake up and enjoy the radiant spread that warms a whole corner of my room around 8 AM; it perfectly covers my bed and provides an ideal spot to slowly wake-up and read before rolling out. Another highlight: our small back porch. At first, I thought it was too small to use in any fashion except to house my tiny cedar sapling. Not true! The railing is a perfect bench and has been used as a seat to read, oil boots, paint toenails, and enjoy a beer on a warm winter day.
I never was one to realize how much a good home affects one's mood, but it's remarkable how the weather and your surroundings can brighten your day. For now, I'll keep daydreaming about chickens and rocking chairs and acres of fruit trees. But soon! So soon! I want to live my dreams and not spend so much time sitting around and making plans.
Until next time,
Kate
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Humboldt Life
I doubt anyone is still reading this after my return from New Zealand, but my goal had been to use this blog as a way of recording life post-graduation and gosh darn it, I plan on staying true to this goal.
So, I returned to life in the 'Boldt. Much like I imagined, life's been pretty slow and uneventful. After a month, I feel like there aren't too many exciting things to share...however, there are a few developments.
First, summer employment. It looks like I'll be returning to the Hat Creek handcrew again this summer. Official hiring hasn't taken place as of yet, but my boss assures me that he's going to do all he can to get me on. This is the first summer where employment has been taken care of before April; not gonna lie, it feels damn good to know where I'll be in a couple months. My hope is to rent a small house or apartment near the station (aka: Hat Creek, Burney, Fall River) so that I'm not living full-time in the barracks for 6 months. I don't think my sanity could handle it. Most of the other guys have girlfriends and/or apartments in Redding to escape to on weekends. Without that luxary, I think I'll settle for living alone in the boondocks on my days off. Oh man. Tough life living in a beautiful area.
Secondly, classes. I'm taking a GIS class at the local community college. It's almost exactly the same class as taught at Humboldt State, the main difference being price. It cost me $50 rather than $600; quite the deal! The main objective of the class is for students to develop a project using GIS and solve for a problem or question that's posed. I contacted my fuels officer over in Hat Creek and asked if I could help with any projects they currently have going or are looking into. He recommended that I help with their WUI (wildland urban interface); they have only classified one small area in the district so far and are looking at using remote sensing and computer analysis to quantify sites post-treatment as well as identifying new treatment areas. Good news: the Forest Service already has a ton of data collected and documented. Bad news: this data can get very messy and may not be in formats I've seen before. But hey!, it's an excellent learning process and I'll be working for the district which looks great on a resume.
Thirdly, current employment. I put out an add for babysitting/nanny work and found a great match. I've been helping out a very sweet family over in Sunny Brae by watching their 19 month-old baby girl, Lily. The parents own a homestead out in Willow Creek (roughly 1 hour east of Arcata) and an apartment in Arcata so they can have a home base out of which to run errands and have basic creature comforts. The plan is to do some babysitting at the Arcata apartment on weekends while they're in town right now, but once the weather gets better, I'll go out to Willow Creek as well to watch Lily while her parents work on the property. The pay isn't much and it's not a lot of time, but so far it's really worked out and I find myself looking forward to babysitting. I guess it's just a nice change from outdoor labor and socializing with foresters and firefighters.
Oh yeah, and I also might be doing some temporary timber cruising for the City of Arcata. And arborist work with my buddy Merlin. And working with my fire science professor at HSU. We'll see how that all goes.
Aside from all that, I've been doing a bunch of hot yoga and home yoga, walking (I try to convince myself to go running, but my "runs" often turn into scenic marsh walks half-way through), reading, logging sports practice/firewood splitting on Saturdays, skeet shooting on Sundays, and seeing what cheap, tasty meals I can make. Current favorite: whole-wheat crackers with salami, sliced tomato, and avocado. Simple, but sooo delicious. So yes, not a very exciting life at the moment, but I'm really happy where I'm at...most days. Which is one of the bigger changes that's occurred recently.
Until next time,
Kate
So, I returned to life in the 'Boldt. Much like I imagined, life's been pretty slow and uneventful. After a month, I feel like there aren't too many exciting things to share...however, there are a few developments.
First, summer employment. It looks like I'll be returning to the Hat Creek handcrew again this summer. Official hiring hasn't taken place as of yet, but my boss assures me that he's going to do all he can to get me on. This is the first summer where employment has been taken care of before April; not gonna lie, it feels damn good to know where I'll be in a couple months. My hope is to rent a small house or apartment near the station (aka: Hat Creek, Burney, Fall River) so that I'm not living full-time in the barracks for 6 months. I don't think my sanity could handle it. Most of the other guys have girlfriends and/or apartments in Redding to escape to on weekends. Without that luxary, I think I'll settle for living alone in the boondocks on my days off. Oh man. Tough life living in a beautiful area.
Secondly, classes. I'm taking a GIS class at the local community college. It's almost exactly the same class as taught at Humboldt State, the main difference being price. It cost me $50 rather than $600; quite the deal! The main objective of the class is for students to develop a project using GIS and solve for a problem or question that's posed. I contacted my fuels officer over in Hat Creek and asked if I could help with any projects they currently have going or are looking into. He recommended that I help with their WUI (wildland urban interface); they have only classified one small area in the district so far and are looking at using remote sensing and computer analysis to quantify sites post-treatment as well as identifying new treatment areas. Good news: the Forest Service already has a ton of data collected and documented. Bad news: this data can get very messy and may not be in formats I've seen before. But hey!, it's an excellent learning process and I'll be working for the district which looks great on a resume.
Thirdly, current employment. I put out an add for babysitting/nanny work and found a great match. I've been helping out a very sweet family over in Sunny Brae by watching their 19 month-old baby girl, Lily. The parents own a homestead out in Willow Creek (roughly 1 hour east of Arcata) and an apartment in Arcata so they can have a home base out of which to run errands and have basic creature comforts. The plan is to do some babysitting at the Arcata apartment on weekends while they're in town right now, but once the weather gets better, I'll go out to Willow Creek as well to watch Lily while her parents work on the property. The pay isn't much and it's not a lot of time, but so far it's really worked out and I find myself looking forward to babysitting. I guess it's just a nice change from outdoor labor and socializing with foresters and firefighters.
Oh yeah, and I also might be doing some temporary timber cruising for the City of Arcata. And arborist work with my buddy Merlin. And working with my fire science professor at HSU. We'll see how that all goes.
Aside from all that, I've been doing a bunch of hot yoga and home yoga, walking (I try to convince myself to go running, but my "runs" often turn into scenic marsh walks half-way through), reading, logging sports practice/firewood splitting on Saturdays, skeet shooting on Sundays, and seeing what cheap, tasty meals I can make. Current favorite: whole-wheat crackers with salami, sliced tomato, and avocado. Simple, but sooo delicious. So yes, not a very exciting life at the moment, but I'm really happy where I'm at...most days. Which is one of the bigger changes that's occurred recently.
Until next time,
Kate
Sunday, January 15, 2012
End of the line
"All good things must come to an end." It's bittersweet knowing that I'll be flying out in less than 12 hours.
The last week has flown by. Thankfully, no more encounters with vicious sandflies and we even managed to have some sunny days. We spent 2 days at a lakeside camping ground at Lake Wanaka. Our first day was spent skydiving and beach bathing, followed by wine and sitting on the roof of our campervan watching thunderstorms off in the distance. Sarah and Al took our second full day to walk into town and rent kayaks. I felt more like staying around base camp and ended up renting a mountain bike and riding some shore trails. Managed to ride next to a river to the neighboring Albert Town; surprisingly easy for someone who's never biked on trail before! Wanaka will remain a sunny gem in my mind. It was all too tempting to apply for the campground facility staff and stay until the end of Kiwi summer. Maybe next US winter?
So, I know that you're probably tired about hearing me complain about the rain. Trust me, I'm tired of complaining about it. But see, we had reason to think we were cursed. Wanaka had not received rain since OCTOBER before we arrived. The afternoon of our second day, and the heavens opened up. It poured all night. While the locals rejoiced, we internally cringed and packed our van to chase blue skies once again. Sarah joked that we spent the entire trip in overcast conditions with blue sky just out of reach. The weather lead to us being in the car more, constantly trying to find a sunny view and trails that weren't flooded. Every Kiwi we met laughed when we told them we had been rained on our whole trip and proceeded to tell us about what beautiful weather they'd been having...up until our arrival. We made the best of it though and still managed the drive around most of the country in less than 3 weeks; not a minor feat!
After Wanaka, we made it down to Queenstown to meet up with our forestry friend, Jesse, and his family. Once again, raining when we arrived. We walked around town and the waterfront and waited a half-hour for FANTASTIC Fergburgers. So good. So big. So worth it. Once again, I'm pretty sure that Kiwis have us beat when it comes to a delicious hamburger; they load them up with beets, plum sauces, and avocado among other things. Jesse's family let us dry out that afternoon in front of their condo's fireplace and we chatted about our travels over a glass of wine. After searching for cheap camping close to town and finding nothing less than $50 for an unpowered campsite, Sarah and Al bought hostel beds and I found a parking spot near downtown for our van that I would camp out in. We met up with Jesse and his brother and went to the oh-so-touristy Minus 5 bar. Completely made of ice, you have to don parkas and gloves before entering. The glasses, furniture, and art are all made of ice. It was fun, albeit expensive, but we asked the young guys running the bar where a good place in town was. We were directed to The Naughty Penguin (very appropriate for post-ice bar) and had a nice drink with locals. The night ended with us finding a bar with dance music and we enjoyed some very entertaining people-watching. Unlike other big towns where most of the hostel crowd seems to be mid- to late twenties, this area seemed to be hosting a rat's nest of 18 year olds. As I said, very entertaining people-watching.
Sarah and I took 2 days getting back to Christchurch where we'll fly to Auckland and then back home. I leave today (the 16th), she leaves on the 18th. We stayed at a picturesque country campground in the middle of the forest. Our first campfire all trip! More rain. More beautiful scenery.
Christchurch is completely different the second time around. Although there is still tons of destruction, many more people! And sunshine! And oh man, some of the most beautiful botanical gardens. We spent yesterday just laying in the central park area reading our books. You managed to save some face, Chch. Good work.
And now, I should be leaving for the airport. Sad to be leaving a country that really does feel like a good-fit, but happy to be returning to a routine. Idle hands get tiresome very quickly, as does spending money. Revamped! Rejuvenated! Ready to face the hard work of finding employment and making tough life decisions! Despite all the scenery and meeting all sorts of people, this is what I love most about travelling. It inspires me to make the most out of everyday life. It reminds me what I enjoy most about home and the friends and family that constitute it.
I can whole-heartedly say that this trip was a success. Sweet as, NZ!
Until next time,
Kate
The last week has flown by. Thankfully, no more encounters with vicious sandflies and we even managed to have some sunny days. We spent 2 days at a lakeside camping ground at Lake Wanaka. Our first day was spent skydiving and beach bathing, followed by wine and sitting on the roof of our campervan watching thunderstorms off in the distance. Sarah and Al took our second full day to walk into town and rent kayaks. I felt more like staying around base camp and ended up renting a mountain bike and riding some shore trails. Managed to ride next to a river to the neighboring Albert Town; surprisingly easy for someone who's never biked on trail before! Wanaka will remain a sunny gem in my mind. It was all too tempting to apply for the campground facility staff and stay until the end of Kiwi summer. Maybe next US winter?
So, I know that you're probably tired about hearing me complain about the rain. Trust me, I'm tired of complaining about it. But see, we had reason to think we were cursed. Wanaka had not received rain since OCTOBER before we arrived. The afternoon of our second day, and the heavens opened up. It poured all night. While the locals rejoiced, we internally cringed and packed our van to chase blue skies once again. Sarah joked that we spent the entire trip in overcast conditions with blue sky just out of reach. The weather lead to us being in the car more, constantly trying to find a sunny view and trails that weren't flooded. Every Kiwi we met laughed when we told them we had been rained on our whole trip and proceeded to tell us about what beautiful weather they'd been having...up until our arrival. We made the best of it though and still managed the drive around most of the country in less than 3 weeks; not a minor feat!
After Wanaka, we made it down to Queenstown to meet up with our forestry friend, Jesse, and his family. Once again, raining when we arrived. We walked around town and the waterfront and waited a half-hour for FANTASTIC Fergburgers. So good. So big. So worth it. Once again, I'm pretty sure that Kiwis have us beat when it comes to a delicious hamburger; they load them up with beets, plum sauces, and avocado among other things. Jesse's family let us dry out that afternoon in front of their condo's fireplace and we chatted about our travels over a glass of wine. After searching for cheap camping close to town and finding nothing less than $50 for an unpowered campsite, Sarah and Al bought hostel beds and I found a parking spot near downtown for our van that I would camp out in. We met up with Jesse and his brother and went to the oh-so-touristy Minus 5 bar. Completely made of ice, you have to don parkas and gloves before entering. The glasses, furniture, and art are all made of ice. It was fun, albeit expensive, but we asked the young guys running the bar where a good place in town was. We were directed to The Naughty Penguin (very appropriate for post-ice bar) and had a nice drink with locals. The night ended with us finding a bar with dance music and we enjoyed some very entertaining people-watching. Unlike other big towns where most of the hostel crowd seems to be mid- to late twenties, this area seemed to be hosting a rat's nest of 18 year olds. As I said, very entertaining people-watching.
Sarah and I took 2 days getting back to Christchurch where we'll fly to Auckland and then back home. I leave today (the 16th), she leaves on the 18th. We stayed at a picturesque country campground in the middle of the forest. Our first campfire all trip! More rain. More beautiful scenery.
Christchurch is completely different the second time around. Although there is still tons of destruction, many more people! And sunshine! And oh man, some of the most beautiful botanical gardens. We spent yesterday just laying in the central park area reading our books. You managed to save some face, Chch. Good work.
And now, I should be leaving for the airport. Sad to be leaving a country that really does feel like a good-fit, but happy to be returning to a routine. Idle hands get tiresome very quickly, as does spending money. Revamped! Rejuvenated! Ready to face the hard work of finding employment and making tough life decisions! Despite all the scenery and meeting all sorts of people, this is what I love most about travelling. It inspires me to make the most out of everyday life. It reminds me what I enjoy most about home and the friends and family that constitute it.
I can whole-heartedly say that this trip was a success. Sweet as, NZ!
Until next time,
Kate
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
West Coast
Quick update.
Drove from Christchurch to the West Coast these last few days. Highlights:
- Cave stream - underground stream; about a 30 minute hike through caves in knee-deep to chest-deep water. Water droplets on the ceiling looked like stars. So cool.
- Franz Josef glacier - hike out to glacier; surreal scenery with lots of crowds. Also so cool...minus the crowds.
- Camping with sandflies - OH GOD MAKE IT STOP. First morning, Al's sanity broke because of the flies and the bad weather. This morning, Sarah's sanity broke because of flies and rain. Crossing my fingers that I'm not next...
- Lake Wanaka - Sunbathed for the first time! One hour makes three weeks out here worth it, right? Right??
- Skydiving - Going in an hour! Nervous, but can't wait!
No time on the internets left; only 5 days left until return trip! Ahhh!
Until more internet minutes,
Kate
EDIT:
Oh man. I just jumped out of a plane at 12,000 feet in one of the most scenic areas I've ever been. A very flirty and hilarious eastern European man was my tandem partner, and made the flight all the more fun. We did a bunch of tricks on our way down which I didn't think I'd have the stomach for. To be honest, I didn't think I'd have the stomach for skydiving period. So incredible!! Definitely an experience that will be difficult to top, what with a view of Lake Wanaka, the neighboring lake, Mount Cook, Mount Aspiration, and the southern Alps. Pictures during flight cost an extra $100-200, so here's a stolen picture with the same view as today:
Tough life, right?
Also, we picked up our Escape campervan from Christchurch. It's Transformer themed! Over the last couple days, we've gotten sooo many waves and thumbs up from little boys driving by or parked at our campgrounds. My camera was forgotten at our hostel in Chch, so pictures will have to wait until my return home. So far, the van has been a mixed blessing. Wonderful being able to cart all our gear around and not have to worry about finding a hostel every night, but we haven't showered in 3 days now (going on 4 since we're not staying at a campsite tonight with facilities). However, the sun finally came out today and Sarah and I enjoyed a jump in Lake Wanaka earlier. I will be going back for seconds shortly. Sleeping quarters tend to be a bit cramped as well, but Sarah and I brought tents so we'll be rotating out.
Spirits have been getting down with all the bad weather, biting bugs, and LONG drives (we average between 5-8 hours in the car on the days we travel) but today has been a favorite for all three of us! Oh man. I seriously can't get this smile off my face.
I was hoping to get my flight changed to fly out Chch, but my travel company is being a butt so I'll be trying to do stand-by up to Auckland on the 16th and catch my 7:30 PM flight back to San Francisco that night. Everything should work out, given I can catch my flight to Auckland. If not, I can just reschedule my flight to SFO from the Chch airport until I can hop a flight out. The return home is coming up so quickly! I'll be coming home with lots of smiles, good memories, and itchy bug bites. Once again, worth the trip!
Seriously until next time,
Kate
Drove from Christchurch to the West Coast these last few days. Highlights:
- Cave stream - underground stream; about a 30 minute hike through caves in knee-deep to chest-deep water. Water droplets on the ceiling looked like stars. So cool.
- Franz Josef glacier - hike out to glacier; surreal scenery with lots of crowds. Also so cool...minus the crowds.
- Camping with sandflies - OH GOD MAKE IT STOP. First morning, Al's sanity broke because of the flies and the bad weather. This morning, Sarah's sanity broke because of flies and rain. Crossing my fingers that I'm not next...
- Lake Wanaka - Sunbathed for the first time! One hour makes three weeks out here worth it, right? Right??
- Skydiving - Going in an hour! Nervous, but can't wait!
No time on the internets left; only 5 days left until return trip! Ahhh!
Until more internet minutes,
Kate
EDIT:
Oh man. I just jumped out of a plane at 12,000 feet in one of the most scenic areas I've ever been. A very flirty and hilarious eastern European man was my tandem partner, and made the flight all the more fun. We did a bunch of tricks on our way down which I didn't think I'd have the stomach for. To be honest, I didn't think I'd have the stomach for skydiving period. So incredible!! Definitely an experience that will be difficult to top, what with a view of Lake Wanaka, the neighboring lake, Mount Cook, Mount Aspiration, and the southern Alps. Pictures during flight cost an extra $100-200, so here's a stolen picture with the same view as today:
Tough life, right?
Also, we picked up our Escape campervan from Christchurch. It's Transformer themed! Over the last couple days, we've gotten sooo many waves and thumbs up from little boys driving by or parked at our campgrounds. My camera was forgotten at our hostel in Chch, so pictures will have to wait until my return home. So far, the van has been a mixed blessing. Wonderful being able to cart all our gear around and not have to worry about finding a hostel every night, but we haven't showered in 3 days now (going on 4 since we're not staying at a campsite tonight with facilities). However, the sun finally came out today and Sarah and I enjoyed a jump in Lake Wanaka earlier. I will be going back for seconds shortly. Sleeping quarters tend to be a bit cramped as well, but Sarah and I brought tents so we'll be rotating out.
Spirits have been getting down with all the bad weather, biting bugs, and LONG drives (we average between 5-8 hours in the car on the days we travel) but today has been a favorite for all three of us! Oh man. I seriously can't get this smile off my face.
I was hoping to get my flight changed to fly out Chch, but my travel company is being a butt so I'll be trying to do stand-by up to Auckland on the 16th and catch my 7:30 PM flight back to San Francisco that night. Everything should work out, given I can catch my flight to Auckland. If not, I can just reschedule my flight to SFO from the Chch airport until I can hop a flight out. The return home is coming up so quickly! I'll be coming home with lots of smiles, good memories, and itchy bug bites. Once again, worth the trip!
Seriously until next time,
Kate
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Christchurch
We thought people were over-exaggerating when they told us to avoid Christchurch. This place is a ghost town! After almost a year, many of the buildings downtown are still in shambles and the recent quakes have done nothing to help. We arrived today by bus around 7, and it was eerie driving along and seeing fewer and fewer people & cars as we approached the city center. Unlike Auckland with it's huge skyscrapers and busy metro area, Chch (Christchurch) has beautiful river greenbelts and is more scenic. Sadly, many of the classic churches have crumbled or are being torn down; the brick architecture doesn't hold up well against the earthquakes. Luckily, we're only in town for one night so we can pick up our CAMPERVAN tomorrow morning.
And let me tell you, we are so psyched that we finally booked a van. A recent cancellation means that we get an Escape van all to ourselves for a week. We're jetting straight down the coast to see all the beautiful national park areas including the Queensland & Lake Wanaka area (where we plan on skydiving over the lake) and the Fjordlands. I'm hoping to squeeze in a massive day hike around Mount Cook before I have to fly out, but I'm learning that it takes much longer than we first thought to get from place to place so it might have to wait for a future trip.
Still raining, although looking sunnier as we head south. Getting nervous about coming back to the States and jumping back into school & work, but all's well!
Until next time,
Kate
And let me tell you, we are so psyched that we finally booked a van. A recent cancellation means that we get an Escape van all to ourselves for a week. We're jetting straight down the coast to see all the beautiful national park areas including the Queensland & Lake Wanaka area (where we plan on skydiving over the lake) and the Fjordlands. I'm hoping to squeeze in a massive day hike around Mount Cook before I have to fly out, but I'm learning that it takes much longer than we first thought to get from place to place so it might have to wait for a future trip.
Still raining, although looking sunnier as we head south. Getting nervous about coming back to the States and jumping back into school & work, but all's well!
Until next time,
Kate
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Windy Wellington
Being around people 24/7 is starting to catch up with me. While the big cities are fun to visit and socialize in, I'm definitely realizing that I enjoy rural areas more. Too many people! Too much noise! It all makes for a quiet and cranky Kate. Crossing over the channel tomorrow will be appreciated.
As far as big cities go though, Wellington is my favorite city we've stayed in so far. On the harbor, there are lots of little shops and cafes that offer great meal discounts and encourage people to mingle. Sarah, Al, and I went out on the town last night to try and find the Malthouse for a beer and ended up on a pretty good self-guided tour of the downtown area. Turns out the pub is only about 2 blocks from our hotel! As I said before, the theme of this trip is getting lost. We're getting really skilled at it! After a beer, Al returned to the hotel while Sarah and I went out dancing. My pop culture is about as up-to-date as New Zealand's, so it's nice to actually know the songs that are played.
Visited the museum in town this afternoon. The culture here is so rich, although the exploitation of the natives remind me of home. I dig the natural history of the islands! My favorite exhibits are the volcanic activity displays as well as the historic flora and fauna. Found a great quote about the volcanoes of the area:
"There is something in the fire and roar that generates an irresistible desire to get nearer to it."
-Charles Dickens
Don't know why I'm so drawn to those words, but they resonate strongly with me. Maybe it's a good summation of why I enjoy forestry and fire so much? It's the same desire that you feel when hiking to a summit or along a trail; there is a drive that pushes you to finish and go further.
Not too much to say otherwise. Weather is getting better; actually had a bit of sun today. South Island tomorrow and I'm pretty darn excited! Give me mountains, alpine lakes, and big sky. Need to refresh my spirit before going back to Humboldt and jumping into the chaos that constitutes the daily grind.
Until next time,
Kate
As far as big cities go though, Wellington is my favorite city we've stayed in so far. On the harbor, there are lots of little shops and cafes that offer great meal discounts and encourage people to mingle. Sarah, Al, and I went out on the town last night to try and find the Malthouse for a beer and ended up on a pretty good self-guided tour of the downtown area. Turns out the pub is only about 2 blocks from our hotel! As I said before, the theme of this trip is getting lost. We're getting really skilled at it! After a beer, Al returned to the hotel while Sarah and I went out dancing. My pop culture is about as up-to-date as New Zealand's, so it's nice to actually know the songs that are played.
Visited the museum in town this afternoon. The culture here is so rich, although the exploitation of the natives remind me of home. I dig the natural history of the islands! My favorite exhibits are the volcanic activity displays as well as the historic flora and fauna. Found a great quote about the volcanoes of the area:
"There is something in the fire and roar that generates an irresistible desire to get nearer to it."
-Charles Dickens
Don't know why I'm so drawn to those words, but they resonate strongly with me. Maybe it's a good summation of why I enjoy forestry and fire so much? It's the same desire that you feel when hiking to a summit or along a trail; there is a drive that pushes you to finish and go further.
Not too much to say otherwise. Weather is getting better; actually had a bit of sun today. South Island tomorrow and I'm pretty darn excited! Give me mountains, alpine lakes, and big sky. Need to refresh my spirit before going back to Humboldt and jumping into the chaos that constitutes the daily grind.
Until next time,
Kate
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Farewell North Island!
Alas, the past week (and then some) has flown by! After staying at the south end of Lake Taupo last night, Sarah and I left Al at a busy bus stop bound for Wellington while we drove up through the central portion of the North Island back to Auckland to return our car. Tomorrow, we are southbound and down! We'll stay a night in Wellington (to re-meet up with Al) before taking the ferry over and then let the real sightseeing begin. The three of us agreed that we've seen some pretty sights up here, but everybody raves about the south and from the pictures we've seen, it's an area well-worth raving about. Also, a Wellington local whom we met on a hike yesterday recommended the Malt House in town, so we plan on making the crossing with some good Kiwi brew in us which has been significantly lacking for the majority of the trip. We're pretty pathetic foresters (and nurses).
I know I keep mentioning the weather, but seriously, it has been depressing to leave cold & rainy California just to come to tolerable & rainy New Zealand. We have been oh-so lucky to see bits of sun on all of our hikes, but I'm crossing my fingers that our luck will bring us at least ONE full day of sun. One! That's all I'm asking for! Come on cyclone gods, I know you have it in you. Even just driving through the country today, it's ridiculous how much more beautiful the landscape is once you let a little sunshine hit it. It would also be nice to leave with some resemblance of a tan...not that I tan much in any case.
I realized yesterday that I haven't taken any group pictures on my camera yet, so here are some stolen photos from Sarah's camera...which is a far better camera than mine anyway!
Haven't heard about anything major happening in the US. If something big/dramatic/awesome has happened, please let me know. I'm that kid that went 75 days without knowing about the Gulf oil spill. So, seriously. Let me know. My e-mail is kmwilliams12@gmail.com if you just want to say hi as well! Miss y'all!
Until next time, Kate
I know I keep mentioning the weather, but seriously, it has been depressing to leave cold & rainy California just to come to tolerable & rainy New Zealand. We have been oh-so lucky to see bits of sun on all of our hikes, but I'm crossing my fingers that our luck will bring us at least ONE full day of sun. One! That's all I'm asking for! Come on cyclone gods, I know you have it in you. Even just driving through the country today, it's ridiculous how much more beautiful the landscape is once you let a little sunshine hit it. It would also be nice to leave with some resemblance of a tan...not that I tan much in any case.
I realized yesterday that I haven't taken any group pictures on my camera yet, so here are some stolen photos from Sarah's camera...which is a far better camera than mine anyway!
Haven't heard about anything major happening in the US. If something big/dramatic/awesome has happened, please let me know. I'm that kid that went 75 days without knowing about the Gulf oil spill. So, seriously. Let me know. My e-mail is kmwilliams12@gmail.com if you just want to say hi as well! Miss y'all!
Until next time, Kate
Monday, January 2, 2012
Celebrating the New Year & Tourist Season
Warning: be prepared for a long post. I have reasonably good internet and got up early to find a computer.
Happy New Year, all! Not sure how you celebrated, but the three of us grabbed a couple beers with some Germans and a fine English bloke in the cute little hamlet of Coromandel Town. Briefly checked out the bars and then walked back to our Lion's Den hostel (see pictures of previous post to understand why it's an awesome place to just hang out) and chatted about life over in Europe. I've never heard anyone talk so casually about hanging out in weather that's -20 degrees celsius! Also discussed traditional holiday drinks in each country; turns out eggnog is popular in Germany and the US but is virtually unheard of in Britain. A very kind German couple talked over our ideas of places to visit and nixed a few areas that we had planned on; they suggested getting down to the South Island and spending the majority of our time there. We return our car in 2 days back to Auckland and then plan on training or taking the bus down to Wellington so we can ferry over.
Speaking of being on the move, we've spent a lot of the time in the car exploring the coast these past 3 days. After venturing over the Broken Hills, we returned to the area the next day to sit on the white-sand beaches in semi-sunny weather. The views of the ocean were worth the sporatic rain and overcast coolness!
The hike to the beach took you through a lot of Monterey pine stands and natural fern-tree forests. While a lot of the area reminds me of home (green rolling hills, cows on the hillside, huge conifer forests), this was definitely a sight that was unique to the west side of the Pacific.
After playing at the beach for a couple hours, we decided to head down towards Tauranga to see if we could find a hostel at the surf town of Mount Maungani. As it turns out, this is where all the Kiwis go to vacation and EVERYTHING was booked. We backtracked to Tauranga for little luck until Al batted his eyes at a hotel clerk and managed to get us a room. Although it was much more pricey than we were looking for, it was better than our alternatives which included sleeping in the car, driving an hour to Rotoruga to find more filled hostels, or attempting to pitch tents on the side of the road at 11 PM.
I should mention that we have a peculiar habit of getting lost. We're getting better about it though! At first the detours cost us about 2 hours worth of time; we're down to about a half-hour now! Part of the problem is that many of the roads aren't clear about what direction they go. They'll say they head east when we really want them to head south. Another problem is that many of the highways intersect mulitple times with neighboring roads, making it difficult when you're trying to find a specific turn-off. We also apparently just fail at recognizing NZ signs. As Sarah says though, it's about the journey and we're seeing a lot of things that we wouldn't have otherwise gone to check out!
After bedding down in Tauranga, we left to go find a series of waterfalls that my off-the-beaten-path guidebook suggested. After getting lost and finding them, we were blown away. WOW. First of all, barely any other tourists! Secondly, one of the most beautiful waterfalls I've seen in person. Kaite Falls, you were well worth a 30 minute detour.
And that's only the upper falls. The lower falls were enormous and roaring with water due to the amount of precipitation the island has received recently. I didn't want to risk my camera getting wet due to all the spray, so I'll have to steal photos from Al or Sarah later on. At the lower falls, there were cliffs to jump off of into the swimming hole and cavities to explore next to the actual falls. Lots of spots to sunbathe as well, if only there had been more sun!
Feeling happy after our visit to the falls, we headed south to Rotoruga to find a hostel for the night. Rotoruga is a very touristy area that the locals feel exploits most of its natural wonders. One of the most geothermically active areas in the world, it seems like everybody has their own personal hotspring in their backyard. Our hostel even has a free thermal spring! After booking a room, we consulted my guidebook again and there is a recommended secret spring south of town. My guidebook doesn't give instructions on how to find it, but it gives a riddle to solve that the author says will lead you to the spring. Al and I solved the riddle and sure enough, we found the perfect hidden spring in a Jurassic looking forest!
The water was sooo nice! We all agreed that this was an epic win. We lounged around for about 2 hours, enjoying the spring and the solitude.
On our way back to the hostel, we passed a sign for Mud Pool. My book raves about this place; the author says it is one of his favorite spots on the North Island. While not one of our favorites, it was definitely a new experience to see so much boiling mud.
Maybe it's just one of those places you have to be at to enjoy. Lots of disgusting and/or hilarious sounds errupted from the mud craters! We stayed around to finish a beer and then jetted back to enjoy the sunset painting the most beautiful colors on the clouds overhead. First sunset I think we've been able to see since it wasn't completely cloudy or rainy at that moment!
When planning this trip, I expected a lot more self-reflection. Turns out I'm around people too often to do much deep thinking. I also expected to see things that took my breath away around every corner. I remember when I first drove into the park when I worked at Lassen; I couldn't believe that I was going to live in such a wonderful area for 3 months. Every time I drove into Redding or back to Davis, I had this same heart-wrenching feeling of just how lucky I was. Here though, so much of it reminds me of the States. Not that it's not beautiful and new!, I guess I just expected more after hearing what others who had traveled here had said. I guess it goes to show what a unique experience it is to live in Humboldt. California, you've ruined me in terms of appreciating natural beauty! I have my fingers crossed that the South Island can show you up.
One thought as a forester; clearcuts are epic over here! Al and I joke that this is where California loggers go to play. I remember my silviculture professor saying he left New Zealand because the forestry was boring, and I can see what he means. Huge tracts of Monterey pine fill the landscape in tight stands. I haven't seen any selection cuts or anything that challenges a manager. Fun if you're a timber beast! Boring as hell if you're not.
Until next time, take care of yourselves!
Kate
Happy New Year, all! Not sure how you celebrated, but the three of us grabbed a couple beers with some Germans and a fine English bloke in the cute little hamlet of Coromandel Town. Briefly checked out the bars and then walked back to our Lion's Den hostel (see pictures of previous post to understand why it's an awesome place to just hang out) and chatted about life over in Europe. I've never heard anyone talk so casually about hanging out in weather that's -20 degrees celsius! Also discussed traditional holiday drinks in each country; turns out eggnog is popular in Germany and the US but is virtually unheard of in Britain. A very kind German couple talked over our ideas of places to visit and nixed a few areas that we had planned on; they suggested getting down to the South Island and spending the majority of our time there. We return our car in 2 days back to Auckland and then plan on training or taking the bus down to Wellington so we can ferry over.
Speaking of being on the move, we've spent a lot of the time in the car exploring the coast these past 3 days. After venturing over the Broken Hills, we returned to the area the next day to sit on the white-sand beaches in semi-sunny weather. The views of the ocean were worth the sporatic rain and overcast coolness!
Cathedral Cove - "Crowded" by Kiwi standards, but still not as bad as US beaches in my opinion
The hike to the beach took you through a lot of Monterey pine stands and natural fern-tree forests. While a lot of the area reminds me of home (green rolling hills, cows on the hillside, huge conifer forests), this was definitely a sight that was unique to the west side of the Pacific.
After playing at the beach for a couple hours, we decided to head down towards Tauranga to see if we could find a hostel at the surf town of Mount Maungani. As it turns out, this is where all the Kiwis go to vacation and EVERYTHING was booked. We backtracked to Tauranga for little luck until Al batted his eyes at a hotel clerk and managed to get us a room. Although it was much more pricey than we were looking for, it was better than our alternatives which included sleeping in the car, driving an hour to Rotoruga to find more filled hostels, or attempting to pitch tents on the side of the road at 11 PM.
I should mention that we have a peculiar habit of getting lost. We're getting better about it though! At first the detours cost us about 2 hours worth of time; we're down to about a half-hour now! Part of the problem is that many of the roads aren't clear about what direction they go. They'll say they head east when we really want them to head south. Another problem is that many of the highways intersect mulitple times with neighboring roads, making it difficult when you're trying to find a specific turn-off. We also apparently just fail at recognizing NZ signs. As Sarah says though, it's about the journey and we're seeing a lot of things that we wouldn't have otherwise gone to check out!
After bedding down in Tauranga, we left to go find a series of waterfalls that my off-the-beaten-path guidebook suggested. After getting lost and finding them, we were blown away. WOW. First of all, barely any other tourists! Secondly, one of the most beautiful waterfalls I've seen in person. Kaite Falls, you were well worth a 30 minute detour.
And that's only the upper falls. The lower falls were enormous and roaring with water due to the amount of precipitation the island has received recently. I didn't want to risk my camera getting wet due to all the spray, so I'll have to steal photos from Al or Sarah later on. At the lower falls, there were cliffs to jump off of into the swimming hole and cavities to explore next to the actual falls. Lots of spots to sunbathe as well, if only there had been more sun!
Feeling happy after our visit to the falls, we headed south to Rotoruga to find a hostel for the night. Rotoruga is a very touristy area that the locals feel exploits most of its natural wonders. One of the most geothermically active areas in the world, it seems like everybody has their own personal hotspring in their backyard. Our hostel even has a free thermal spring! After booking a room, we consulted my guidebook again and there is a recommended secret spring south of town. My guidebook doesn't give instructions on how to find it, but it gives a riddle to solve that the author says will lead you to the spring. Al and I solved the riddle and sure enough, we found the perfect hidden spring in a Jurassic looking forest!
The water was sooo nice! We all agreed that this was an epic win. We lounged around for about 2 hours, enjoying the spring and the solitude.
On our way back to the hostel, we passed a sign for Mud Pool. My book raves about this place; the author says it is one of his favorite spots on the North Island. While not one of our favorites, it was definitely a new experience to see so much boiling mud.
Maybe it's just one of those places you have to be at to enjoy. Lots of disgusting and/or hilarious sounds errupted from the mud craters! We stayed around to finish a beer and then jetted back to enjoy the sunset painting the most beautiful colors on the clouds overhead. First sunset I think we've been able to see since it wasn't completely cloudy or rainy at that moment!
When planning this trip, I expected a lot more self-reflection. Turns out I'm around people too often to do much deep thinking. I also expected to see things that took my breath away around every corner. I remember when I first drove into the park when I worked at Lassen; I couldn't believe that I was going to live in such a wonderful area for 3 months. Every time I drove into Redding or back to Davis, I had this same heart-wrenching feeling of just how lucky I was. Here though, so much of it reminds me of the States. Not that it's not beautiful and new!, I guess I just expected more after hearing what others who had traveled here had said. I guess it goes to show what a unique experience it is to live in Humboldt. California, you've ruined me in terms of appreciating natural beauty! I have my fingers crossed that the South Island can show you up.
One thought as a forester; clearcuts are epic over here! Al and I joke that this is where California loggers go to play. I remember my silviculture professor saying he left New Zealand because the forestry was boring, and I can see what he means. Huge tracts of Monterey pine fill the landscape in tight stands. I haven't seen any selection cuts or anything that challenges a manager. Fun if you're a timber beast! Boring as hell if you're not.
Until next time, take care of yourselves!
Kate
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