Peter and I took a collectivo taxi/bus into the Sacred Valley and stayed in Ollaytaytambo for two nights. A very quaint tourist town, it features Inca ruins on the two hillsides bordering the square. Our first afternoon in town consisted of booking train tickets for Aguas Calientes (the gateway town to Machu Picchu) and locating a hostal. We ended up staying in a hotel run by two brothers and an English girlfriend. In order to get up early for our train in the morning, we slipped off to bed shortly after dark. However, another group of VERY noisy travelers were up at 4 AM and woke up the entire establishment. By the time that Peter and I were ready to head out for the day around 5:30 AM, we realized that we were locked in. Unbeknownst to us, the place was locked and completely closed off every night until the brothers woke up in the morning. Gently knocking on windows, we shyly awoke our host to let us out to the street. Great start to the day, right?
While Machu Picchu is completely worth the money and time to get to, it has definitely become the ultimate tourist trap. There is an expensive entrance fee on top of an expensive train ride to Aguas Calientes on top of another fee if you take the bus to the entrance rather than hiking the 1/2 mile straight up...which if you plan on doing ANY hiking on the mountain, you´ll be wanting to take the bus. Luckily, we met an American couple (Kim & Matt) the evening before when we were booking our train tickets. Between the 4 of us, we were able to get over the language barrier and figure out where the hell we were supposed to be and what we had to do next. All of us also bought a further expensive on the entrance ticket by getting the `Machu Picchu Mountain`add-on. What an amazing hike! Straight up for an hour and a half (at a slow pace with frequent stops), you end the hike on a peak overlooking the city and the Temple of the Moon. Literally at cloud level, you can see every direction around for miles. Peter and I shared a lunch of bananas, mandarins, and empeñadas at the top and shared our bounty with the other two who had been warned by the guidebook to not bring food (or extra water). Luckily, we brought quite a bit of extra food just in case.
After exploring the city with hundreds of other tourists, we caught our return bus to Aguas Calientes and enjoyed a well earned beer and hearty lunch. After a couple hours of chatting, we walked around the town to kill some time before our evening train. While passing beneath a bar, three people leaned out and told us that the happy hour deals were worth it and to come join them. With a request like that, how can you pass it up? Up we went, and to our delight and surprise, found that the three were LA residents and two were from Paris orginally. With a cheers or two to Thanksgiving and our loved ones back home, we enjoyed Pisco Sours as the sun set and chatted about places to check out. Kim, Matt, Peter, and I bade our goodbyes quickly as we realized our train had arrived at the station and rushed down to hop back on for a dark ride back to Ollaytaytambo. Definitely a day to remember.
Since Machu Picchu, Peter and I have spent our time hiking old Inca ruins next to towns in the Sacred Valley and just enjoying the countryside. Yesterday, we found an old stone wall on the outskirts of Pisac and spent hours just talking and observing the locals walk and work through the corn fields. We both commented on the fact of how strange it is to travel; seems like most of your time is spent just walking, sleeping, and eating. We`re both REALLY enjoying the vacation, although in typical Williams fashion, I look forward to a productive routine when I return home. In order to keep my idle hands happy, I´ve been dragging Peter along on long hikes every morning. Today, we explored all the hills behind Pisac. Que bonita! The views of the Andes are definitely nothing to scoff at.
And now we´re back in Cusco for the night. To mix up the style of lodging and lodgers, we´re staying at one of those tragically hip hostels close to the central plaza. We´ve both commented on the fact that this will probably be the only night where we can tolerate the loud music and young crowd. Tomorrow, up to Santa Teresa to get a taste of the jungle and locate an impressive hot springs complex. Despite a horrible sunburn on the back of my neck from Machu Picchu, I plan on wearing a bathing suit at least once this trip. After that, we´ll be quickly making our way south and working back towards Lima.
Scary to think we´re already half-way thru our trip. Still have to see Lake Titicaca, Nazca, and Arequipa. Soon enough, I guess?
Still happy and healthy and so psyched to try my hand at making empeñadas at home!
¡Until next time!
No comments:
Post a Comment